jet removal

Hi all. I have a kz900. air pods, Kerker header. im wanting to remove my jets. first to see what size they are. second to see where the clip is set at. it is bogging down when i punch it from a stop. its pretty bad. my question is. does the jet come out the bottom of the carb or the top. ive got a cymers. there are two sections on jet removal. one is float and jet removal. obviously out the bottom. And jet needle removal. out the top. If anybody might have any ideas on the bog down im all ears

Main jets from the bottom, I.E. remove float bowl. Needles come out the top with the slides, needle jet comes out after slide removal and main jet removal. Pilot jet I.E. low speed jet comes out the bottom after float bowl removal. If the top of your carb's have a 4 screw square cover, then a rubber diaphram in the top then you have constant volicity carbs.
You may have some trouble without buying a kit for changing the vacuum signal hole diameters. There are some really good kits out there and I recommend you talk to the suppliers or manufactures about all motor/exhaust mods and altitude/ temp ranges you operate in. They will get your kit really close. Probably $100- $130. Make sure no vacuum leaks at carb holders/ manifolds, plugged low speed jets.

From what I've been told (and seen) the VM26 carbs that come on the Kz900 are pretty rich from the factory. If you are experiencing bog I would look at other factors before playing with the jetting - especially if the exhaust and pods are the only modifications made.

Also helpful - when did this start happening? Has it always happened or was it something that just recently started occurring?

The main and pilot jets are removed through the float bowl. The main jet needle is removed with the slide from the top of the carb. You will have to pull the slides out to find out which clip the needle is set to. I had to drill 3 or 4 screws out when I tried to remove my needles just recently, just fyi. I have found all the screw heads in my carbs to be pretty soft.

Others will be able to provide better specifics, I'm sure.

my spark plugs look fine. they are tanish in color and look good. as far as when it started. well ive became alot braver the more i ride. so i dont know when it started. i would say as long as ive had it. i just bet the jets have never been messed with and its got the pods and header on it. i need to get the main jet out. got the top off the carbs right know but got into it and got scared.ive broke stuff before. need to ask first.

please excuse my ignorance, but the part i dont understand is. remove the 2 screws which mounts the operating linkage to the slide. lift up the linkage and take out the slide. ok. is the slide the bar that connects each carb. the operating linkage is where the throttle cables connect. why do i feel like your laughing at me.

You have to remove the bar before you can get to the two screws that are down inside the slide.

If you are looking for the main jet, you are on the wrong end of the carb.

To remove the throttle link bar, there is a bolt at the front of the slide assembly (engine side) under the cap on each carberator as well as a bolt in the push/pull mount between carbs 2&3. Once these five 8mm headed bolts are removed the bar just slides out the side.

One the bar is removed the slides can be pulled straight out (although the gaskets will likely be in the way - you may need new ones).

The screws you mentioned are down inside the slides and the e-clip on the needle is sandwiched between the plate these screws are holding down and the bottom of the slide.

The main jets look like this and are found in the float bowl on the bottom:

asevans wrote:

...kz900. air pods, Kerker header. im wanting to remove my jets. first to see what size they are. second to see where the clip is set at. it is bogging down when i punch it from a stop. its pretty bad...If anybody might have any ideas on the bog down im all ears

Sometimes non-carb related issues may contribute to bogging down when punched from a stop, such as incorrect valve clearances, weak ignition instead of healthy properly timed spark, sticking advancer, etc.

Have oem points been replaced with electronic ignition such as Dyna-S?

If not already done, would use strobe type timing light to verify proper functioning of advancer by watching it instantly move back and forth as rpm's are varied by blipping the throttle.

Might also be caused by maladjustment of pilot air screws.

Am not particularly suspicious of the jet needle clip position on KZ900 oem carbs, especially with tan color plug reading.

Would be more suspicious of possible pilot circuit issues.

Good Luck!

hi guys
im rebuilding my carbs on a 1982 kz1000
its about the floats what is the correct low end and high end measurements ? how do we set the floats i know for experience that a 1976 gl1000 its 21 mm low end position and top tower position for high end. thanks