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New to KZ's, lots of questions
- Mortarmanmike
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I don't have a manual yet but its in route.
The bike has a 4 into 1 and pod's installed. I also have (i think) a stock airbox. I've been told the bike has a new top end. I recently put in new plugs and have a bright blue spark in all cylinders.
The bike will almost start with no choke. If I give it full choke it fires up immediately but runs at 4000rpm. When I drop the choke it rough idles at a hair over 1000rpm. I say rough idle because I haven't gotten number 3 to fire yet. I'm thinking that getting 3 to fire will even out the idle significantly. There's also a little random popping from one of the pods.
Last night I pulled the carb rack and dropped the float bowl on #3. There was lots of fuel in the float but without a book I wasn't sure if the level was right. I pulled the pilot and the main jet. Hit them with carb cleaner, blew them out. There had been a little gummy on the pilot so I was hoping that was it. Put it all back together and fired it up.
#3 is still not firing. I let it idle about 2 minutes last night while trying to figure out what was up with #3. For no reason I could determine, it jumped up to a 4000rpm idle again. I killed the engine and here I sit.
I'm new to KZ's and mikuni's. But I think this is where I stand:
1) Popping might be due to valve clearance. I've ordered a gasket from Z1 and plan on checking them when it shows up.
2) Do a total carb break down and cleaning? The PO told me it had been recently done but I'm beginning to suspect the jets were just changed (old float bowl gasket.) Should I do them all or just 3? I don't feel like spending close to $100 for 4 rebuild kits.
I'm fairly handy but don't have any specialized tools. I'm going overseas at the end of the year and the bike will sit for a year while I'm gone. I was really hoping to get some riding done this season instead of wrenching.
Sorry my first post is so long. I'd really appreciate what ever advice ya'll can give.
1979 KZ1000 Shafty
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- Mortarmanmike
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1979 KZ1000 Shafty
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- KOOL RYDER
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- KZ 650B2 / KZ 1000E
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I have a 79 E and from time to time #4 will become oil fouled. Pull the plug and check it.
I would replace all 4 plugs while you are at it. NGK B8ES work for me.
My bike ofen idles at 3500-4000 rpms on start up on full choke, but afer 20 seconds I push that choke down to 1/2 for a couple of mins while I get me helmet and jacket on. Then kill the choke and she should run at 1100 rpm's.
That bike is a beast and has plenty of power to get you going hella quick (for a 30 year old machine) if you want. No trouble finding power on the highway.
I wish it had an extra gear for cruising.
Take the revs all the way up to have a really spirited ride.
Good Luck
KRB)
Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008
1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST
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- Mortarmanmike
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It has 4 brand new plugs. NGK B8ES. Gapped to .29 Good spark on 3. My gut tells me it's carb probs.
Anybody got any ideas on why it would suddenly jump up to a 4000rpm idle? Seems to me like a jetting issue somewhere. It's like the main kicked in when it should only be running on pilot. But it happened with the throttle closed and I assume the carb slide and needle jet closed.
Yeah I'm really looking forward to letting this thing rip but I've had it a week and it hasn't left the garage. 80deg and sunny, thank God I have another bike.
1979 KZ1000 Shafty
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- riverroad
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- 1980 1000LTD B4
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Check #3's carb to head boot for cracks/leaks?
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- Mortarmanmike
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Are the boots pretty tough? By that I mean can they withstand taking the carbs on/off many times or are they prone to wear and cracking?
I'm really hoping the manual is waiting for me in the mail when I get home. Thanks ya'll.
1979 KZ1000 Shafty
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- boots
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Later,Boots
present bikes 1976 KZ900, 1978 KZ650 Past bikes Too many to remember!!Mostly Kawasakis and a few Sportsters
81 cb650
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- Mortarmanmike
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I guess I should also mention that I have an inline petcock and fuel filter. Not using a vacuum petcock. If that matters.
Thanks.
1979 KZ1000 Shafty
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- Patton
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...All 4 of the intake boots (between carbs and cylinders) have a brass vacuum port....
Some quad-carb racks have a 5th vac nipple for vac petcock, which would also be capped where manual petcock is fitted.
Some models use 2 of the 4 (or 5) vac nipples incident to an emission control system (many of which systems have been removed with then unused vac nipples being capped).
Good Luck!
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- boots
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Good luck!
Later, Boots
present bikes 1976 KZ900, 1978 KZ650 Past bikes Too many to remember!!Mostly Kawasakis and a few Sportsters
81 cb650
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- Mortarmanmike
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Boots, the tank has been creamed (sp?) and the engine just recently rebuilt. I'm assuming the bike was a basketcase before I bought it. So far this is my plan of attack:
1) recheck the plug. It's brand new but who knows might still be fouled. Prob swap #3 and #4 to see it the problem migrates.
2) Check for any intake leaks. Does the WD40 method still work if a cyclinders not firing at all? I've used it with a poorly running cylinder but not one that was dead.
3) check the float bowl level with the carb on the bike. I read how to do that on another thread. I'll also replace the inline fuel filter just to be sure.
4) when my manual and gasket arrives, check the valve clearance.
5) if all the above fails, I'll pull the carb and do an entire rebuild. That's the only way to know it's done right. That lemon juice method looks interesting.
6) if I actually get all 4 cylinders running, I'll start trying to read the plugs to see if it's jetted properly.
Back to one of my initial questions. With the bike idling on 3 cylinders, does anybody have any idea what would cause it to suddenly rev and idle at 4000rpm. Besides intake leak which I'll check later.
Thanks ya'll. I've already learned a great deal about these mikunis on here. Keep the shiney side up.
1979 KZ1000 Shafty
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