Quick question

If the pilot screws are screwed all the way in should the bike still run? I screwed mine all the way in and the bike still starts and runs just as it did when they were out. Does this mean there is a leak somewhere? Or is this normal?

Now I am really confused. (nothing new) I took one of the screws all the way out. (completly romoved) and turned the bike over thinking gas would or should come out the hole. Well, the bike started and ran, no gas came out the hole at all. No difference in the way the bike ran at all.

Sounds like a plug in the air bleed passage. Does removing/adjusting the same screw on any of the other carbs do anything. Mine had the same issue, the rubber o-rings at the base of the screws deteriorated and plugged the passages. Had to tear them all down and clean 'em up good.

Sounds like the carbs are coming off again. Does any o-ring that size work or does it have to made for use in a carb? I hate buying a kit for each carb just for the o-rings.

Those screws just let air in. No gas in that area. The O rings are tiny. The screws are tapered. If you decide to take the carbs off why not take the screws out - very carefully. The parts are tiny so if you drop any be prepared to spend time on hands and knees :laugh:
You should have a screw, a spring, an O ring and a tiny silver washer. If its all there and no obstruction then dont invest in rebuild kits

When I did mine I just pilfered fuel safe o-rings from my work(I work at a shop, so lots of supplies). Just made sure the size matched. Remember that each screw only adjusts the one carb. If you adjust it, the bike will still run but either richer or leaner on that cylinder. If you take the carbs off and remove the float bowls and the airbleed screws you should be able to blow air through the passage. I used aerosol carb cleaner through the little red hose that goes in the nozzle to dissolve gunk, followed by shop air to remove chunky leftovers and stuff.

As far as setting it back up goes, I put it together with the new o-rings, the washer then the spring and screw. Turn the screw all the way in until it just barely seats, you don't want to damage the seat. Back each one out 2 turns and use that as your baseline for setting your idle mixture. It's a lot of listening to how the engine idles to get the adjustment right. Takes a tuned ear!