So where does everything go?

If floatbowl rapping doesn't resolve float valve leakage, could try Seafoam as a cheap easy longshot before another disassembly.

Good Luck!

I don't like dropping the bowls or removing the entire rack. If you have sausage fingers like mine, you'll understand. I've had good luck flushing debris out of the float valve by removing the drain screw and opening the petcock. Catch the gas and see how many lower life forms are swimming around in the bowls. In line filters really help. My .02 worth, ride safe, Steve

When attempting to remove a floatbowl from bike-mounted carbs, I encounter difficulty unscrewing floatbowl screws, even with a shorty screwdriver, especially the inside carbs. Perhaps tightened them too much during previous reassembly. Thinking allen head screws would be easier. And even where successfully so removing a bowl, thereafter find it awkward dealing within the limited confines while working "upside down" and being less able to see exactly what I'm doing, especially on the inside carbs (outside carb not much easier), and dental mirror no real help either.

But to each his own, and I admire 650ed's ability and success in accomplishing this without removing the carbs.

Meanwhile, fresh inline fuel filters installed before ever letting any fuel whatsoever enter freshly cleaned carbs has gone a long way toward keeping the floatvalves clean and functioning properly for the long run.

Am having no difficulty accessing the main jets through 17mm drainplug on smoothbores.

Good Luck!

While comparing different techniques, I prefer curved long needle nose pliers to quickly and cleanly remove fuel lines from the petcock outlet nipples on a fully assembled bike, this usually being just before removing the fuel tank.

And find it much easier to deal with the throttle cable attachments by doing them while the carbs are almost in position but still slightly out toward the right side of bike before final alignment to be pushed back into the carb holders. Otherwise, the throttle attachments are more difficult to access, adjust and tighten.

I apply a dab of silicone or Armoral to inside of carb holders and around outsides of carbs which allows carbs to readily squish into the carb holders without drama. And also use a wooden stake for leverage behind the carbs when pushing then into the holders. Makes reassembly of carbs onto the engine so quick and easy.

Good Luck with whatever technique of choice!

Patton wrote: "When attempting to remove a floatbowl from bike-mounted carbs, I encounter difficulty unscrewing floatbowl screws, even with a shorty screwdriver, especially the inside carbs."

OK, now I understand the issue. I gave up using a short screwdriver for that very reason. I should have mentioned how I get to the screws. (see picture) Also, I use a regular size compact mirror (from my wife, honest) to see under the carbs.

650ed wrote:

What headache? To drop a bowl you simply remove 4 screws. You must be kidding if you think removing the carbs is easier than that when you will STILL need to remove the same 4 screws. I've done this many times and I've removed the carbs several times for other reasons, and believe me, removing the 4 screws is easier no matter how pliable the boots are because you don't need to play with the throttle cables or anything other than the 4 screws. Ed

Like I said, I'd rather remove the rack which I can do in two minutes. Work on the carbs on my bench instead of upside down under a bike. I'm not kidding at all. To each their own but checking the seat and float seems to me to be a whole lot easier. Maybe if I had a lift table but I don't think so. I can do the throttle cables with hemostats in about 30 seconds. I'd also rather use my eyeballs than a compact mirror to see. I'm not in a race anyway and I'd rather do them once. If you are comfortable doing it upside down, with mirrors, have at it, I also admire your ability.

Thanks again for all the great advice. I too have sausage fingers, so removing the carb might ultimately be necessary.
The hemostats, curved needlenoses, and mirror would have saved me hours in my first carb removal/assembly. I should have washed out my bone dry fuel tank and put a fuel filter on before starting the bike.

I'm off to get the fuel filter on before I do anything. Then I'll try the seafoam while rapping on the carb bowls.
Then I'll try the on-bike float removal. But something inside me knows I'll wind up removing the carbs again.

Another handy tool is an extra long phillips head screwdriver to access the screws in the front clamps holding the carb holders onto the carbs.

I also remove the rear clamps entirely to get them out of the way. Hasn't harmed them so far to be opened wide enough to remove them, and later replace them after the airbox hoses are in position onto the carbs.

When reinstalling, may position the two inside rear clamps with screws on top for easier access next time.

Remember while carbs are on the bench to assure correct fuel level in float bowls, using the clear tube test, and adjust float tabs as might be necessary to accomplish this. Hold carbs stationary and level during this test. I just use short lengths of 2x4's. Others use a more elaborate bench carb mount system.

Tip -- only need one single float bowl screw to hold things together while performing the clear tube test, as this saves time when possibly several removal/reinstall cycles are needed. The gasket won't leak much if at all, and any slight leakage won't invalidate the test.

Good Luck!

Ok, I installed a fuel filter and put a bunch of seafoam in my tank (1/2 can). The fuel no longer leaks out the float bowl tubes, but there is a slow drip coming off the float bowl of the left inside carb. I can't seem to locate the source, it may be the floatbowl gasket. I am going to give her a ran around town, just to get things settled in a bit, maybe the gasket will rehydrate.

Call me Ishmael but I wouldn't ride a gas leaking bike around. Better carry a extinguisher if you insist.

It wasn't much of a leak. I just drove her a couple miles and it isn't leaking now. It is running less than perfect now, in fact I had to leave the choke on the entire time.

my guess is that either, my fuel line is pinched somewhere, or/and I need to get the carbs synched.

Thanks for the warning though. Leaky carbs and the fear of fire is why I switched the carbs out in the first place.

Couldn't have done it w/o assistance from the members of this forum.

What are "The carbs will have to come off and get cleaned out?". at least that's my guess.....Alex!