1976 kz900

yes those will be the stock coils the wires are epoxied in the coils.

So after reading through the forums and all I realized that I screwed my pilots all the way in... not too tight but still... tight enough... I thought that when I took the carbs off and cleaned them this is the way everything was set... maybe this is giving me trouble with the hard start???

Here's an excerpt from Z1E's carb info page:

26mm (VM26SS) KZ900A4 & A5
Main Jet 115
Air Jet 1.0
Needle Jet O-6
Jet Needle 5DL31-3 (last number is the clip position)
Throttle valve (slide) 1.5mm cutaway
Pilot Jet 17.5
Air Screw setting 1 3/8 turns out

Here's a link to the page.
Z1E carb info

After cleaning, would use the default 1 3/8 pilot airscrew setting (meaning 1 3/8 turns out from lightly seated) and fine tune from there.

Good Luck!

ERRR... I have to remove those carbs again...

So after I turn the pilot screw out.. do I want to apply any threadlock or anything? Concerned me with all the vibration and all...

brianpclarke wrote:

ERRR... I have to remove those carbs again...

So after I turn the pilot screw out.. do I want to apply any threadlock or anything? Concerned me with all the vibration and all...

Don't use any threadlock, because the screws are intended to be adjustable for setting fuel mixture of carb pilot circuit.

Their adjustment should not be affected by vibration (the carbs are rubber mounted which helps isolate them somewhat).

Am thinking there should be a rubber o-ring and a spring on each pilot screw, so would double-check those components.

If carb overflows after cleaning and re-assembly, would first try rapping smartly and repeatedly against the float bowl of the offending carb while the engine is running with a plastic mallet or large screwdriver handle, which often resolves an overflow which might be caused by a recalcitrant float needle or float.

Would also check/adjust valve clearances.

And assure proper operation of timing advancer unit by watching it quickly move back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle. Use a strobe-type timing light to see this when the engine is running.

May service advancer if necessary by removing it for cleaning and lubing with moly grease.

When cranking up and starting a cold engine, remember to have the OFF-RUN handlebar swithch in the RUN position, choke lever pulled fully up, and don't touch the throttle until the engine is running.

Good Luck!

10Bucks wrote:

Brian, My KZ900 LTD (76) came with 28mm carbs. Yes you most likley just have a piece of crud in the needle of that carb. I removed the airbox on mine and put pod filters on. Now the carb stack comes off in about 5 minutes. Trust me the carb stack will come off alot. Pretty simple with practice. My carbs had 115's installed when I got it. The kits came with new 115's and 118's. I tried the 118's but ended up back to 115's. Bozeman, Montana is about the same elevation as Park City. My KZ gets about 38 MPG if I ride it like I stole it. I have gotten 45 with the wife on the back and behaving myself at the same time. When the mileage dips to about 32 it's time to service the pod filters.

IF this bike is in nice condition, DO NOT toss that stock air box! IF you put individual filters on the carbs and rejet them....fine. Just hang onto that air box!

The closer to stock that bike is...the better!

Hah.... Well the bike is pretty much all stock. New paint, and soon a complete dyna ignition. I am definitely going to leave it like this.
However, the carb after rebuild seems to be working awesome... no leaks, but after trying to start her, I realized I have no spark..
Got my dyna s and dyna coils in today from Z1, but like a moron forgot to order spark plug wires :blush: ... So have to wait a couple of days until those come in. As soon as I get this thing running I will post a picture...

Thanks for all your help guys!

brianpclarke wrote:

...turn the petcock on, a few seconds later gas starts rushing out of carb #2, through the needle in the bottom of the carb. If the tube is attached then it starts rushing out of the airbox, and all over the bike and floor....

Overflow should escape through the nipple on bottom of float bowl. With tube attached to the nipple, overflow should then run through the tube and onto the floor underneath the bike (not into the airbox).

Perhaps the tube itself is kinked or clogged and thereby blocking the usual escape route through the nipple, whereby overflow is escaping instead by rising into the carb throat and flowing into the airbox.

Would assure all overflow tubes are in good shape and allowing flow-through from nipple.

Good Luck!