Carbs for 1015cc or 1075cc Upgrade

i cant argue with any of the above points, but at the same time i cant afford the totally riculous prices i see these carbs ( 29 s) selling for....i would love nothing more than a set of 29 s, but finances tell me right now that some jetted 26 s are gonna have to do for now....

well they will work just fine but just realize that they will be quite a bit of untaped power by staying with the stock sized carbs keep on the look out for a set you never know when a set might fall into your lap.

timebomb33 wrote:

well they will work just fine but just realize that they will be quite a bit of untaped power by staying with the stock sized carbs keep on the look out for a set you never know when a set might fall into your lap.

i fully understand....if bike pulls ok to 8500, thats all i want....i just did the bore and cams for a little extra oomph.....i m not looking for a fire breather....at this point i just want to get carbs back on and tool it around a little and see what i ve got......

Pending what your desiring (strong running daily rider or more of a racing build), riding style, piston kit and cams, head work (valve w/P&P), exhaust etc.... 29-31mm...

In my 1015cc, .365 CAM and based on my riding style and desires, the recommendations were 29mm....

As Buzz @ Dynoman and Cavanaugh for that matter said basically the same exact thing, 100% word for word....

"I'll sell you what ever you want but based on what I informed them I was looking for in performance and in what I was doing in my re-build, stick with thew 29's and you'll be blown away at the response.." and they where both dead nuts on the money...

The 34's are a racing carb for the most part... At mid to high range, hold on to the seat of the pants performance no doubt.... :woohoo:

Research all the postings where others have problems at idle to low/mid range pending motor configurations... WTF syndrome...

Seriously speaking, do your research, speak with these old guys in the business for you'll find the majority are ex drag racers themselves.... Be honest in what your informing them and be honest with yourself regarding your motor build or expectations in what your going to be doing to your motor...

With all that said and done, 29-31mm seems about right for your configuration...

OMR

keith1 wrote:

i cant argue with any of the above points, but at the same time i cant afford the totally riculous prices i see these carbs ( 29 s) selling for....i would love nothing more than a set of 29 s, but finances tell me right now that some jetted 26 s are gonna have to do for now....

As I mentioned before; get a set of 34CVs on eBay for a hundred bucks and port your own head. Just clean up all the rough spots and match the carb boots to the intakes or the other way around which ever happens to apply, and you will double the power of the parts you just spent all that money on. A stock head is just capable of so much. If you cant get the air past the ports, why bother with the cams and large boars at all. Here is a picture of my port job. It took me about an hour per port, but I did a lot more than you have to.

Here is a picture from the other end.

I did this myself and took the head to a friend of mines speed shop to put on a flow bench. I went from 83CFM to 96.5CFM. You could bring your head from 68CFM to 80CFM with just cleaning out the roughness and matching the boots to the ports. You have now just added quite a few very cheep horse power.

This is what the ports looked like at the beginning.

OK, I have noticed no one even mentioned the 28's that came stock on the 80 ltd. If you are looking for a bargain basement deal and maybe later put some 29's what about the 28's they have to be better than the 26's and although not 29 smooth bores they could be had for as cheap as the a stock set of 26's. Wouldn't that give you a little jump? As I have said I only read about the hp from the manual and I never rode my bike with the 28's on but I would think that they have to be a bit better than the 26's.
Anyone?

saxjonz wrote:

OK, I have noticed no one even mentioned the 28's that came stock on the 80 ltd. If you are looking for a bargain basement deal and maybe later put some 29's what about the 28's they have to be better than the 26's and although not 29 smooth bores they could be had for as cheap as the a stock set of 26's. Wouldn't that give you a little jump? As I have said I only read about the hp from the manual and I never rode my bike with the 28's on but I would think that they have to be a bit better than the 26's.
Anyone?

You have no argument there- The 28s are quite a bit better and can also be bored to 28.5 smoothbores, which was quite common in the day. Kawasaki went back and forth between the 26s and 28s because they showed only a tiny difference between each other on a stock factory head. Not until the head was ported was the effect noticed. The best example is NASCAR racing. They have very restrictive carburetors, but the intakes and heads are where the power is achieved.

Smooth-bore 28mm's, sure would love to have a set but have you seen what these have been going for on e-bay! That one set sold for $1000.... :blink: Not even re-built at that, nasty old set with stripped screws, missing pieces and such.... Totally bonkers... :blink:

One of the reasons I went with new vs 30 year old set.... The pricing was phenomenally insane not to mention for the majority of these old sets, parts are becoming hard to find... Actually obsolete in some cases....

Unless your sticking with 100% stock restoration for which I could understand the need for 28/29 smoothies, new carbs are the only way to go where by the time you find a set, re-build them and if your lucky you don't come across the WTF factoring or need obsolete parts, it breaks out about the same in costs...

I should work (sales/marketing) for Mikuni or Keihin... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Keith1:

Let me know how it runs when you get it assembled again.
Also, I'm curious what intake/exhaust/jetting you'll be using with the 26's and the 1075.

Thanks all!

otakar wrote:

saxjonz wrote:

OK, I have noticed no one even mentioned the 28's that came stock on the 80 ltd. If you are looking for a bargain basement deal and maybe later put some 29's what about the 28's they have to be better than the 26's and although not 29 smooth bores they could be had for as cheap as the a stock set of 26's. Wouldn't that give you a little jump? As I have said I only read about the hp from the manual and I never rode my bike with the 28's on but I would think that they have to be a bit better than the 26's.
Anyone?

You have no argument there- The 28s are quite a bit better and can also be bored to 28.5 smoothbores, which was quite common in the day. Kawasaki went back and forth between the 26s and 28s because they showed only a tiny difference between each other on a stock factory head. Not until the head was ported was the effect noticed. The best example is NASCAR racing. They have very restrictive carburetors, but the intakes and heads are where the power is achieved.

Some newer 28's will work okay if they have air fuel mixture screws so you can fine tune it. If they are smog carbs. they can be very limited.