Gas leaks out everywhere now

Ok I am feeling dumber than ever now. At first gas was leaking out through the over flow tubes so I took the carbs off and cleaned the bottoms out (where the floats are) now the carbs don't leak anymore but when I tried to start the bike (which it did try to start for a second) gas started comeing out the air intake and exhust. (mostly exhust I think) The gas continues to flow when I am not turning the engine over as well.

By the way the bike is a KZ750H2 and has Keihin type carbs with a hand choke lever on the side of the carbs. (not smart, just have a Haynes manual)

The fuel tap was trashed but doesn't leak so I put in an on/off valve and fuel filter with new fuel lines. Gas flows freely from the tank to the carbs and apparently continues on through to the exhust and some through the air intake. So now I am wondering if maybe the fuel isn't being burned properly in one or more cylinders or one or more exhust valves may be stuck open or maybe there is still a problem with the carbs letting too much gas in to the cylinders.

What do you all think?

take the plugs out one at a time and do a compression test...or just put your thumb over the spark plug hole...that will tell you whats going on in there.....carbs clean/got four sparking plugs?got umppphhhh in each cylinder???it is one of em prob.....good luck .......i'm just answering to bump this post to top and maybe one of these kind gents 'll think it over....craig

Think you have a potentially hazardous situation. Extenguish all smokes. Before /during or after your' carb rebuild, fuel has run amuk. weepy petcock /leaking float valves, pee on the floor. The float chamber overflow can handle low volumn over flow. Mass gas rises to the level of filling airbox/pouring into combuston chamber and out exhaust, and also leaks past rings and into cases. check oil level. if high, change. clean airbox, dis-able ign. pull plugs.Make sure floats are installed right side up, and work properly. take bike outside. get a fire extingisher, toss rags over open plug holes and crank over. This may sound retarded, But.raw gas exiting exhaust is a bad thing, and can lead to explosive results. Think of the possibiltys. raw gas dosen't compress. a cup of liquid fuel against the electric starter or kick start can bend a rod. I might be wrong, but better safe than sorry,g

When you took the carbs off exactly how and what did you do to it. And did you check for sure that fuel filter thing works really well? I would have bought a pingel even though they cost more. I just had so many problems with those lousy excuses for petcocks on both my bikes that kawi put on.
Now many people may think differently but I swear that those stupid fittings would come loose and once I was riding well more than once the pot metal fitting came off and gas was pissin everywhere including my pant leg. I can just see the skin graft surgery and pins and plates they put on me IF I survived that fire and resulting crash in to a parked car or telephone as I frantically freaked out. Besides that once I put that valve on I noticed that more flow equals good supply in return bike runs much better.
Sounds like the needle valves are sticking open and may even need replacing. If you buy the o rings and parts from the dealer like I did before I bought another set of 29mm miks then you will spend the dahmer price. If there was so much gunk on the bowls they needed to be scraped out then perhaps those carbs are toast and you would do nice to get other ones.
You didn't mention too much about the specific details so we can't assume at this point just what it is.

Does your bike have a vacuum advance. I am totally not familiar at all with post 80 z's and I have only ever owned or ridden the 900-1000 z model bikes. The vacuum advance might have something to do with that.
I had a zr1100 that would just piss fuel scary like. I had to replace the little needle valves as they were corroded and that cost a pretty penny at over $125 and I think perhaps the inside of it may have been corroded a bit too. Would have bought some nice carbs for that bike had I known I would continue to have a headache. Make a long story short it would do that every time it was humid or extremely hot.
The obvious is that you will have to take those carbs off and do a sonic cleaning and do it right not just taking the fuel screws out and blowing air through but taking them off the bike and soaking the spit out of them and using some serious compressed air with a lot of carb cleaner and hope and pray you get it right the first time. But like I said sometimes carb problems don't go away so easily. I had the originals on my 79 and tore them off over 20 times and the bike would run good then it would run on three cylinders. I even had someone do them for me which lasted two days and then gave me grief.
Looking at that bike I would say the tank is rusty so for sure get a really good reusable filter that WORKS as some you buy look like they would be good filters but don't actually filter the little stuff out. I think pingel has some of those on their site.
Dude you have your work cut out for you and I don't envy you. This should be a bike you really liked when it was new and have a feeling about putting time and effort in to get straight. I say clean the crap outta that tank, put a gravy filter on the bike not a two dollar pos and clean those carbs right or pay someone to check em out and see if they are not trash. I am sure those diaphragms are probably dry rotted and whoever had the bike left the old gas in it for it to muck up the whole fuel system and that won't be an easy fix but don't pour crap in to the tank like people will say "kreem it" or this crap that looks like trans fluid. Guarantee that stuff will come off and get all in to the carbs and in to the head and then you will be really frustrated at that point. Make sure you get a really good filter for starters because if you don't those clean carbs won't matter one iota. I think they have the good ones with magnets in them to collect the metal frags from the rust. If I remember correctly you said the compression was way low but if it was even you should be able to get the bike started provided you have the proper fuel delivery and good spark.

I hadn't thought of the possibility of having the floats on upside down but I will check that for sure. I also like the idea of a filter with a magnet that can catch any rusty metal But the one I put on has a solid inside to it so I would hope that it would stop anything coming from the tank. I put on see through fuel lines and filter so I could see the fuel flowing better, and because it looks cool.

It looks like everyone is in agreement that it is a problem with the carbs which actually works for me I can get complete carb rebuild kits and go through them with a fine tooth comb easier and cheaper than doing engine work. But I will first check to make sure the floats aren't upside down. I hope that is the problem.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

Another thing too is that the floats must stay in the same bowls that they came out of which is why I prefer to label them with a magic marker in case they get mixed up. The tabs are easily bent. It could be many things but for sure if that bike sat like it looks like then those carbs need some serious attention. Did you do the compression test with the carbs off or on the bike with the throttle wide open? That may affect the readings you got the first time you did it. I remember my neighbor telling me when I did my bike that I was doing it wrong and that you have to have the throttle wide open. Well, it will tell you in your manual how to properly do it.
The filter that is clear plastic and has brass inside is the filter that z1 has I bought them and think they don't work quite so well. If there is rust in your tank the little pieces go right through and the rest on top often plug up the fuel supply. I have had to deal with that before too. I had problems with regular filters and then I bought a 30 dollar aluminum filter that is reusable and I can honestly from that moment on the rest of the 10k miles I put on last summer did not affect the carbs one bit whereas the other filter twice I had to take the carbs off and a few times just the nuts on the bottom of the bowls. PITA don't go there if you don't have to. Clean em once and get it right and then put a real filter on it so you don't have to revisit that whole scenario. It sucks arse to have to be tearin stuff apart when all you need to do is ride that second.

Thanks for the input any idea where I could find one of those aluminum reusable filters?

burkmanofgod wrote:

Thanks for the input any idea where I could find one of those aluminum reusable filters?

www.pingelonline.com/fuel_filters.htm