1982 KZ 550 Pod Filters. Won't start cold

I put pod filters on my 1982 KZ 550 LTD and it won't start cold. It will start cold with starter fluid sprayed on the filters, but otherwise won't start cold. Once it's warmed up and shut off, it will start up again no problem. It seems to run pretty good once it's warmed up, but just has a problem cold starting. What would your suggestions be. I can't afford a jet kit, so is there a way to drill the jet to accomodate the pod filters? Or is there something else that should be done? Or do I just need to save up for a jet kit? Has about 1800 miles on it. Although it has a hard time starting, I'm proud of this rusty old bike because when I got it, it wasn't running at all and I brought it back from the dead...I'd just like to be able to start it's heart without the defibrillator (ether) Thanks a lot.

If not already doing when starting cold engine, try full choke and no throttle.

Good Luck!

Ugh, yea I’ve got the same issue. When I picked up my bike I immediately modified it and lost the stock airbox and installed pods. It was difficult to start when cold and nearly impossible to start below 45 degrees. I did everything I could think of and finally gave up and (forgive me) installed a primer. I’m anxious to see what ideas come out here.

If not already done, would assure advancer is clean and lubed and operating properly.

Assure ignition timing is correct, F mark aligned with case mark at low idle RPM.

Use strobe type timing light to watch advancer move back and forth as RPM's are varied by blipping throttle.

Would also check/adjust valve clearances to specs. And perform compression test.

Remove plugs, visually inspect quality of spark, and install brand new plugs per KHI specs.

All of the above before addressing carbs.

Good Luck!

Put your hand over the hole in the airbox...oh wait.

I saw in another thread where someone put terrycloth wristbands over their pods. Seems like a decent stopgap until you re-jet.

Pinholegod wrote:

I put pod filters on my 1982 KZ 550 LTD and it won't start cold....

Would it start cold before pods were installed?

Some KZ models are reportedly very tempermental about starting unless the airfilters in oem airboxes are perfectly installed.

Those TK22 carbs need full choke. That means the choke plates must come all the way down and each plate has a flap (looks like a little trap door). If the hinge pin of the trap door is coming out, which is very common, the trap doors sometimes don't close all the way. That makes cold starts difficult. Make sure each flap has it's pin peened-in, but be careful the choke plate material is fragile and brittle. Maybe some sort of cement would be a better way. Also make sure each flap has it's spring in good condition and make sure each flap closes and seals all the way, but doesn't stick.

Another thing to consider is the fast-idle adjustment. If it's set properly, you can start without any throttle blip. Here's a mod to make it easy to adjust without taking the tank off. It's for the 81 gpz, but the LTD, and most years for the Standard, carbs are identical.

www.geocities.com/loudgpz/GPZchokeScrewMod.html

Also if you're running pods or an aftermarket exhaust, you'll probably want to go up 2 to 6 main jet sizes and maybe even 2 to 4 sizes on the pilot jets depending on the exhaust and pods flow. I drill all my own jets. There are many sources for mini drill bits on the internet. I found the cheap drills at Menards have chucks that close all the way down.

The TK22 work very well without the airbox and jetting is simple because they are not CV carbs. It's just a matter of getting the choke flaps working perfectly.

I think someone tried sealing the flaps on the choke plates all the way shut. That way you manually control the choke opening as you hit the starter. That's the same principle as the hand-over-the-airbox-opening trick. Just slowly lower the choke lever (opens the choke) while you are cranking.

If pods are added, you would do well to rejet. You can use Keihin main jets as they are sized the same a Tekei as far as gas flow and the thread is the same. The pilot jets are a problem since you can't buy them. You will need to drill out a stock set to enlarge the openings.

OK, thanks for all the advise. I'm trying to start with the carbs fully choked. I had the same issue before switching to pod type filters. I had to spray a little starter fluid into the airfilter box then too. I took the carbs apart and cleaned them out as best I could and it's still won't start cold without a bit of starter fluid.

If I try to drill out the jets, how do I determine what size drill bit to use? Do jet #'s correspond to millimeters or some other standard? All I have are the pod filters. The exhaust is stock. What size drill bits would be recomended for this?

As far as the ignition timing goes, I don't know if it's adjustable I'll check into that. I stock ignition on the bike. Electronic, no points... is that adjustable? Also, I think I could benefit from a valve adjustment. I'll have to look into things more when the weather gets a bit warmer.

OOOPS...I said it has about 1800 miles on it...I meant 18,000 miles.

The TK22 jets, as many jets, use hundredths of millimeters as the number. The 92 main is .92mm. The 32 pilot is .32mm.

1 inch equals 25.4mm and the mini drill bits I use come with thousandths of inch markings in the index.

The difference in flow for two different jets with the same number can be attributed to other factors such as the length of the jets bore, and the depth at which the orifice sits in the bowl.

For the most part, the ignition is not adjustable without elongating the timing plate holes.

You would need to rejet to Stage 3 jetting for pods and either stock or aftermarket exhaust. Remember this. Hard cold starting is a lean condition, and hard hot starting is a rich condition. The pod filters are letting more air in, than the stock air box would, so richening it up is necessary.



If you have carbs that look like this, then they are TK22's as Lou mentioned. You can go to www.buykawasaki.com and find your year and model, then see the exploded view diagrams, but you'll need the jetting Lou recommends, as his bikes use the same carbs.