Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube
- 80kz750LTD
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08 Feb 2009 19:53 #263116
by 80kz750LTD
Early bikes:
1971 Honda CB100
1970 Suzuki TS90
1974 Yamaha DT125
1972 Honda CB350 Chopped
1973 Yamaha DT175
1975 Suzuki GT250
Current bike:
1980 KZ750LTDH1
Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube was created by 80kz750LTD
I have a 1980 KZ750LTD-H1, four cylinder, with a cracked float bowl overflow tube junction.
Just like cott10r: 12/31/08 "the culprit is a crack in the tube that is in the float bowl itself, the brass tubing has a crack in it from top to bottom, thanks everybody for pointing me in the right direction"
I have the same problem as per my local Kawa mechanic. Before I took it in with wallet in hand, I tried the float valve and the whole petcock "guts". I took it to the shop when I moved #1's constantly draining (out the overflow) float bowl to #4 and the problem moved with the bowl! My mechanic says the tube-bowl junction is cracked, doesn't trust a repair on it, and that they are looking for a used float bowl but is happy to hook me up if I find one first. I should mention here I did let the bike sit for 10 years, drained of gas, I knew that had liabilities in it, now I am trying to bring it back to life. It starts and runs but of course, leaks gas all over my left foot when I stop and cuts out, no suprise there!
Any ideas or sources? The manual says its a Keihin CV34, I really only need one or a junkyard that I can call or any tip on someone who can fix this, my soldering experience is with wires more than brass.
Thanks in advance, I'm so glad I found this site, I can't wait to spend some (more) time looking around, especially to see the pic's that help me relive those earlier days. I bought mine as the third owner in 1986 so I bought it six years old ... and now it's an antique. My short ride before the shop, exit to exit on tthe Interstate burying the speedo reminded me of the days when I rode to/from work second shift, hit that highway at 11 PM and nightly did the same, it felt damn good too.
OK I do digress, it hit near 70 degrees here today, North Georgia, seen a lot of bikes out, not mine, . So here I am. Thanks in advance for any help!
Just like cott10r: 12/31/08 "the culprit is a crack in the tube that is in the float bowl itself, the brass tubing has a crack in it from top to bottom, thanks everybody for pointing me in the right direction"
I have the same problem as per my local Kawa mechanic. Before I took it in with wallet in hand, I tried the float valve and the whole petcock "guts". I took it to the shop when I moved #1's constantly draining (out the overflow) float bowl to #4 and the problem moved with the bowl! My mechanic says the tube-bowl junction is cracked, doesn't trust a repair on it, and that they are looking for a used float bowl but is happy to hook me up if I find one first. I should mention here I did let the bike sit for 10 years, drained of gas, I knew that had liabilities in it, now I am trying to bring it back to life. It starts and runs but of course, leaks gas all over my left foot when I stop and cuts out, no suprise there!
Any ideas or sources? The manual says its a Keihin CV34, I really only need one or a junkyard that I can call or any tip on someone who can fix this, my soldering experience is with wires more than brass.
Thanks in advance, I'm so glad I found this site, I can't wait to spend some (more) time looking around, especially to see the pic's that help me relive those earlier days. I bought mine as the third owner in 1986 so I bought it six years old ... and now it's an antique. My short ride before the shop, exit to exit on tthe Interstate burying the speedo reminded me of the days when I rode to/from work second shift, hit that highway at 11 PM and nightly did the same, it felt damn good too.
OK I do digress, it hit near 70 degrees here today, North Georgia, seen a lot of bikes out, not mine, . So here I am. Thanks in advance for any help!
Early bikes:
1971 Honda CB100
1970 Suzuki TS90
1974 Yamaha DT125
1972 Honda CB350 Chopped
1973 Yamaha DT175
1975 Suzuki GT250
Current bike:
1980 KZ750LTDH1
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- Sandy
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- Fly High,Tony
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08 Feb 2009 20:04 #263121
by Sandy
1977 KZ1000 A-1
Replied by Sandy on topic Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube
I can't help you personally,but did want to welcome you to KZR.
I'm sure it's only a matter of time before someone with your needed part will chime in.
I'm sure it's only a matter of time before someone with your needed part will chime in.
1977 KZ1000 A-1
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- gane
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08 Feb 2009 20:07 #263124
by gane
[img][/img] 1977 KZ1000A1
Replied by gane on topic Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube
80, post a pic w/a tape measure, I'll look thru my junk.G
[img][/img] 1977 KZ1000A1
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- l0g1c
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- Hanging on for dear life.
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08 Feb 2009 20:09 #263125
by l0g1c
'81 KZ750 LTD
'72 CB350K
Omaha, NE
Replied by l0g1c on topic Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube
Soldering is probably your best bet, but I've also read of people having some success with slipping something over the overflow tube like heat shrink or fuel line.
'81 KZ750 LTD
'72 CB350K
Omaha, NE
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- Patton
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- wjh6320
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08 Feb 2009 20:42 #263130
by wjh6320
Replied by wjh6320 on topic Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube
Im new to the site but just wanted to say hello and say that iff you have to cobb it try seal-all it will hold up to the fuel.
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- JR
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09 Feb 2009 17:39 #263375
by JR
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
Replied by JR on topic Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube
I have the same carb and had the same problem. The brass overflow tube was cracked. Not right at the junction with the bowl body but close.
Visit a hobby shop and look for a length of brass tubing. They come in different small sizes about a foot long. I brought my bowl with me and found a piece that had an internal diameter such that I could just slip it over the existing overflow tube. Cut to length and a bit of soldering around the base everything was just fine. That was 5 years ago. JB Weld should also work. Just make sure to let it cure for at least 24 hours before you fill with gas.
Hope this helps
Visit a hobby shop and look for a length of brass tubing. They come in different small sizes about a foot long. I brought my bowl with me and found a piece that had an internal diameter such that I could just slip it over the existing overflow tube. Cut to length and a bit of soldering around the base everything was just fine. That was 5 years ago. JB Weld should also work. Just make sure to let it cure for at least 24 hours before you fill with gas.
Hope this helps
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- 80kz750LTD
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10 Feb 2009 11:17 #263546
by 80kz750LTD
Early bikes:
1971 Honda CB100
1970 Suzuki TS90
1974 Yamaha DT125
1972 Honda CB350 Chopped
1973 Yamaha DT175
1975 Suzuki GT250
Current bike:
1980 KZ750LTDH1
Replied by 80kz750LTD on topic Cracked Float Bowl Overflow Tube - Near Miss
So close and yet so far...
I couldn't believe my luck ... someone had a set of four carbs for an 1981 for "parts" on e-bay. I was top bidder this morning but was topped by the end of the auction -- I'm at work and I got tied up, I totally forgot to watch that last 30 minutes or so, it ended at Noon, (EST). I got beat by $1, total was $34 + shipping, I would have paid more. I did e-mail the Seller and asked him to pass on to the buyer I still want the float bowl.
So to catch up to all you who have been so helpful:
gane, the bike is at the shop still so I can't send you a picture but I'll be bringing it home soon and definately send one then.
Now that the float bowl replacement plan is rapidly evaporating, (like the gas that drips on my foot when I ride!), next will be seal-all and JB Weld like so many of you recommended. My mechanic recommended against JBWeld initially but it can't be any worse than a bike you can't ride can it? I'm not so sure about how I'd slip another brass pipe over it, I know the overflow goes "up" into the carb body, I just haven't tried to gauge how much clearance there is for a larger diameter tube. I need to get the bike and see for myself exactly where the crack is although he told me at the junction of the overflow to the bowl, I'd like to see for myself to better evaluate your ideas.
Is heat shrink actually petroleum resistant?
Thanks so much, I'll update when I have better news.
PS - If anyone here bought those carbs ... lets talk about the #1 float bowl I need, it may be a gamble but it's work $50 or so to try.
Thanks all!
I couldn't believe my luck ... someone had a set of four carbs for an 1981 for "parts" on e-bay. I was top bidder this morning but was topped by the end of the auction -- I'm at work and I got tied up, I totally forgot to watch that last 30 minutes or so, it ended at Noon, (EST). I got beat by $1, total was $34 + shipping, I would have paid more. I did e-mail the Seller and asked him to pass on to the buyer I still want the float bowl.
So to catch up to all you who have been so helpful:
gane, the bike is at the shop still so I can't send you a picture but I'll be bringing it home soon and definately send one then.
Now that the float bowl replacement plan is rapidly evaporating, (like the gas that drips on my foot when I ride!), next will be seal-all and JB Weld like so many of you recommended. My mechanic recommended against JBWeld initially but it can't be any worse than a bike you can't ride can it? I'm not so sure about how I'd slip another brass pipe over it, I know the overflow goes "up" into the carb body, I just haven't tried to gauge how much clearance there is for a larger diameter tube. I need to get the bike and see for myself exactly where the crack is although he told me at the junction of the overflow to the bowl, I'd like to see for myself to better evaluate your ideas.
Is heat shrink actually petroleum resistant?
Thanks so much, I'll update when I have better news.
PS - If anyone here bought those carbs ... lets talk about the #1 float bowl I need, it may be a gamble but it's work $50 or so to try.
Thanks all!
Early bikes:
1971 Honda CB100
1970 Suzuki TS90
1974 Yamaha DT125
1972 Honda CB350 Chopped
1973 Yamaha DT175
1975 Suzuki GT250
Current bike:
1980 KZ750LTDH1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.