any reason to NOT use allen heads...

to mount the new carb manifolds to the head?

i can't see any reason not to, save that you could possibly tq them down too hard and pull the threads out.

--r

I'm in the process of replacing all screws w/stainless Allen head screws. And would strongly suggest everyone to do this if possible.
I've worked w/bikes, on/off all my adult life, and Phillips head screws is, arguably, the most frustrating thing about wrenching on bikes.
As far as stripping or over torquing screws, that's always a consideration when tightening screws/bolts into aluminum.

totally agree with you ej.

just wondering if there were any crazy reason to use those bloody screws. need to lose them if possible.

it's far easier to use a tq wrench on an allen head fastener, than on a phillips head. 8^)

new manifolds are on the way, and i'll stop down at the hardware store and pick up some stainless fasteners this week.

also, use anti-seize, not just for spark plugs anymore.

--r

thats one of the first things i do is ditch the phillips head screws and replace with allen heads.i allways put anti-seize on them before screwing them into aluminum,i know some dont agree thats just the way i do it.:whistle:

Glad it's not just me cursing those phillips head screws. I didn't replace them yet, but I did get a new #3 screwdriver, and a #3 tip for a cordless drill. For a really balky screw, I used the drill bit with a cresent wrench on it; you can lean into the drill and apply torque with the wrench. Just don't shove over the bike!

hand-held impact driver.

that is all i have to say about those effin screws. only way to deal with stuck ones. some gorilla used all his back muscles to put these in and try to get them to seal.

i was gonna try to re-vitalize them a bit, but once i got them off, the innermost portion had shrunk. the side towards the head was a lot smaller ID than the throats of the carbs, and lots of tiny cracks.

not worth it. i found traces of at least 3 different sealers on them too. looked like yamabond, some thread sealer, and some silicone. they were done.

--r

solomrus check your pm

Make sure the replacement bolts are the correct length. On many of the bikes, the factory screws are 6mm x 18mm long - this leaves you a choice of 16mm or 20mm in length for most replacement bolts. Neither is a good choice - if you go 16mm, you run the risk of stripping the threads out. If you go 20mm, they are usually too long and will just bottom out at the point the manifold snugs up to the head - it gives the impression the manifold is secured tight - but they may not be - you run the risk of an airleak.

It's best to grind/cut the bolts down to the correct length.

Post edited by: jeff.saunders, at: 2006/02/22 15:11

thanks jeff.

20mm with a 1-mm washer would get you close. i am planning on using those anyways.

lathe makes exact measurements easy when cutting bolts down. 8^)

--r

We've tried to find a source for 18mm long bolts and have failed so far - otherwise we'd have some for sale on the web site.

i just called fastenal here in omaha hes going to check if 6x18 mm allen heads are available and call me back,i buy a lot of stuff from them so they treat me pretty good .we shall see:whistle:

i've ran into problems finding the long bolts that hold the sprocket cover on.

i found a place that had a few, bought them, then then went out of business.

these seem like they should be easier to find. 8^)

thanks for the help on this gentlemen!

--r