VM28SC-Throttle slide binding

Hi All;
I'm working on my '74 Z1A getting it roadworthy again. It had sat unused for about 5 years. The tank was a mess, full of rust and the coating that I applied had turned into a viscous carb killer. I removed all the polymer with acetone and the rust from the tank. I dropped the float bowls and cleaned all passages and put in K&L carb kits. The motor fired up nicely but it would not return to idle properly. After I checked into it further, I found there was still some sticky residue in the bore and on the slide, which I removed. I fired it up and it returned to idle much better. I then noticed that the slide I just cleaned was hanging up when opening. I discovered galling on the front side of the slide bore just above the throat. My question is how to deal with the rough area. The slides snap shut/open nicely when the engine is not running but with vacuum it/they hang up. I'm inclined to smooth out the area with fine sandpaper and kerosene. The slide looks good, with no transfer of metal, however there is a very sharp edge adjacent to the cut out of the front edge and I'll probably dress it with a india stone. Is there any magic here that I should know about? I appreciate any and all input, ride safe, Steve

I've experianced similar w/worn amals. To wit: slide wears a step in bore in body at cruise height. thus, slide runs free until intake vac, cants slide. if you haven't already, you might try swapping slides around, and polish bore w/ semichrome. if wear is indeed the prob, stoning will just accelerate wear.perhaps George will have more, or even a single body for sale.luck G

I'm really boggled right now. I removed the carbs and touched up #4 slide bore with some 2000 grit paper. I also lightly dressed the throttle slide where I thought the sharp edge was. I wiped the other bores and slides with Berrymans and reassembled, installed and resynched. Just for fun, I checked the float levels and they were all high about 3mm. I had to bend the crap out of the adjustment tab to make them correct. (I'm thinking the K&L check valves are way different length than the OEM-duh!). I took her out for about 20 miles and the idle return is better but not right. The other thing is that it won't accept WOT. It seems to be OK up to about 3/4 and then absolutely falls on its face. I'm wondering if the slides aren't opening uniformly or a couple are just plain sticking. FYI, I set valve clearance and the timing is pretty close. I haven't messed with the air screws and have them at 1-1/4 turns out. After the ride, compression checked out at 140, 125, 125, 140. I allowed 10 "hits" to arrive at these values. All plugs looked the same with clean electrode/insulator and darker shade on the face where the electrode is welded on. New OEM air cleaner element w/OEM exhaust.
Before I R&R them again, I sure could use your help with any insight or experience. Thanks and ride safe, Steve