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petcock is hard to turn
- KZQ
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- Walking Behind the Corn May Not Be All That!
KZCSI
www.KZ1300.com
Riders:
1968 BSA 441 Shooting Star, 1970 BSA 650 Lightning, 1974 W3, 1976 KZ900, 1979 KZ750 Twin, 1979 KZ750 Twin Trike, 1981 KZ1300, 1982 KZ1100 Spectre, 2000 Valkyrie, 2009 Yamaha Roadliner S. 1983 GL 1100
Projects:
1985 ZN1300
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- Sandy
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- Fly High,Tony
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Can you say Pingle? Go ahead splurge, you're worth it!:woohoo:
KZCSI
You won't regret it!
1977 KZ1000 A-1
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- Exitpupil
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79 KZ1000 LTD B3, 1075 kit, BS34 carbs, high velocity ported heads, K410 cams, V&H pipe w/custom baffle
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- bill_wilcox100
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Seriously, we don't all have endless budgets that's for sure, so do what you got to do. Second hand, scrap yard, e-bay... and budget willing, even a Pingle.
Best of success.
1977 KZ650-B1 (Stock)
Upgrades:
- Dyna S Electronic Ignition (DS2-2)
- Dyna 3 Ohm Coils (DC1-1)
- Coil Repowering Mod
- Progressive Springs Front & Rear
- Saddlemen Seat Cover
- New Metallic Red Re-Paint & Repro Badges.
Montreal, Canada
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- Bluemeanie
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A few weeks ago I rebiult the petcock from the 1983 kz750 and today when I was riding the bike started sputtering, so when I went to turn the petcock to reserve it was very hard to turn. I had to get off the bike to turn it. She ran good afterwards.
The petcock was turning normaly before the rebuild. Any suggestions as to what may be the problem before I go tear into it?
I rebuilt my vacuum petcock with a K&L kit and found the parts were not to OEM specs. The large rubber thing with the holes behind lever was too thick and made lever hard to turn. I ended up reusing (still good) original rubber and now turns OK. The diaphram supplied with the kit was too short and never made contact with seat to shut off fuel flow, e-mailed K&L and they sent a new one which was even shorter! I ended up ordering one from Kawasaki and it works perfect. Vacuum petcock and parts still available from Kawasaki (Used up till 2005 on KZ1000P)
1980 KZ650F1, Bought new out the door for $2,162.98!
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- Locozuna
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KZ900LTD, KZ750LTD, KZ650, 72'Triumph Trident
"Over the Mountains
Of the Moon,
Down the Valley of the Shadow,
Ride, boldly ride,"
The shade replied
"If you seek for Eldorado!"
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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So i'll wait and see what comes down the ebay pike and bagged up the petcock.
The cheapy i bought from z-1 enterprises with a torn diaphram i just flipped the tear spot to be on another side and re-installed while i wait for them to mail a new rubber.
seems to be holding......SHOULD HAVE BOUGHT THE GOOD ONE?????peace craig
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- mumbles
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2001 KZ1000 Police
1998 Vulcan 800
Houston, Tx
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- Patton
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... petcock on a 76 900 was getting hard to turn also and the other day it became super easy to turn while riding(then the bike died). i took it apart to find that i had snapped the male groove off of the back of the on-off-reserve-lever.
i should have lubed the thing inside!!!! and i would not be on a mission to find a new petcock lever. anybody know where to get just the lever for replacement....
Imo it is doubtful whether lubing would have helped or if a new lever would resolve the problem (unless the issue was only an unlubed o-ring -- unlikely).
The oem manual petcock (non-vacuum) has a cone shaped "plastic" valve with holes in it that rotates inside the metal housing and govens which fuel inlet pipe (or neither) is accessed from inside the fuel tank.
The hand lever turns the plastic valve, which is supposed to fit tightly but turn smoothly inside the housing.
With age and wear and grit/crud incoming with the fuel, the plastic valve eventually gets scored and fails to smoothly turn -- similar to galling -- and finally just sticks in one position.
A replacement plastic valve might resolve the issue, but likely isn't available as a separate part. I have unsuccessfully attemped to "resurface" the interface with valve grinding compound and other abrasive type cleaners/ polishes, all to no avail. And do not believe any lubricant, silicone or otherwise, would last very long being constantly exposed to the fuel.
To keep things pos original, I opted for an oem replacement from the dealer. But in fairness, the 1976 petcock operated just fine for 25 years.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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I also think my petcock is thirty somthing years old and served well.
pingle????
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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intersting...i'm glad you explained the plastics to us as I would still be seeking a lever at some point and not fixing it well.i think i'll try a small flathead screwdriver and see if i can turn the white inner plastic piece..i think it will be not turning very easy and will prove you right.
I also think my petcock is thirty somthing years old and served well.
pingle????
Might be lucky enough to remove the plastic valve and clean the petcock internals to where it again functions.
Would first soak in PJ Blaster or Kroil -- overnight -- in hopes to loosen without damaging the valve upon removing it.
Careful not to lose the small spring inside the lever which protrudes against the plastic valve. The spring provides gentle pressure to hold the valve snugly in position. The o-ring is supposed to prevent any fuel escaping past the valve from leaking out the handle.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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