really odd problem

when the bike is upright ie going in a stright line it pulls fine till it gets to the top end, still need some bigger mains.
problem is when cranked over in the corners with a trailing thtottle, when you try and put the power on its all fluffy and flat. soon as you get out of the corner and upright it starts pulling fine. checked the float leval and seem ok
any ideas it has me stumpped.
cheers rob

I'm thinking gravity? A bike leans in a corner, so the fuel level in the carb changes orientation.

how did you set the float level?,,sounds like it is right on the edge of too high

bountyhunter wrote:

I'm thinking gravity? A bike leans in a corner, so the fuel level in the carb changes orientation.

I may be way off here, but centrifugal force should maintain the float levels just as if the bike were still sitting upright. The same way you don't fall off the bike while leaning in a corner. I don't think its gravity causing your problem, but stranger things have happened.

Is the only changing variable the orientation of the bike to the road? Can you replicate the problem under different conditions?

It's true there is some radial acceleration (the actual term for centrifugal force)in a corner, but the reason you don't fall off is you are holding on.

I don't think the force balances the fuel level perfectly, so if it is off to begin with, it will screw up more in corners.

it will only happern when the bike is lent over.
its not really a situation i can do a plug chop in ethier:laugh:
think i'm going to try and get some diffferant carbs for it, stripped them down agian last night to try and raise the needles and all the little screws on the slides have been rounded of. you can also see traces of loctite on the screws.
time to start looking for some carbs

sorted it
been getting worse the last week so had a proper look at it last.
even though it had a new loom and ignition switch fitted by previuos owner. most of the conectors were lose or corroded.
while i was under there i did the relay mod for the coil feed as well.
the conector to the 2/4 coil was very lose.
just have to play a bit more with my jetting and we should be there
gone up to 136 mains thinking that was the prob so could drop donr to the 125 that i had in last week.
thanks for all the ideas
cheers rob

The electrical connectors,bullet style and the ones I call quick connect for the coils, will tend to become loose with vibration and give the indication of a fuel problem. The quick connection type can be carefully squeezed with needle nose pliers so it is tight again.

Some 400-600 grit sandpaper,plastic compatible electrical contact cleaner and some dielectric grease will reduce the chance of being stranded. Also clean the fuses and the fuse clips as they get corrosion too.

This type of maintenance should be done every six months or before the riding season after winter. Moisture gets into the many and various electrical connections,corrosion sets in and voltages/current flows are reduced.

bounty hunter wrote....

It's true there is some radial acceleration (the actual term for centrifugal force)in a corner, but the reason you don't fall off is you are holding on.


I always thought that it was "centripital" force?

Concept

Most people have heard of centripetal and centrifugal force. Though it may be somewhat difficult to keep track of which is which, chances are anyone who has heard of the two concepts remembers that one is the tendency of objects in rotation to move inward, and the other is the tendency of rotating objects to move outward. It may come as a surprise, then, to learn that there is no such thing, strictly speaking, as centrifugal (outward) force. There is only centripetal (inward) force and the inertia that makes objects in rotation under certain situations move outward, for example, a car making a turn, the movement of a roller coaster—even the spinning of a centrifuge.

think the main part of the prob was a bad wire going to number 2/4 coil, when i pulled the conector out the wire was hard and crusty into the bullet end.
chopped it all out and have gone from the relay to the coils with new wire and solidered/heatshrink terminals.
world of differance, its like i have just picked up 20bhp
still wont rev out but that might be a the 136 mains i have in it now from trying to sort the problem. will try the 125 agian and see how it goes.
feels very under geared now, will only about a ton, need to have a count up of teeth.
much happyer with the bike now.

Coils on any Kawasaki will be 1 & 4 cylinders and 2 & 3 cylinders. That is, the plug wires from the 1 & 4 coil will go to the 1 & 4 spark plugs. 2 & 3 coil wires will go to the 2 & 3 spark plugs. Sounds like you need to get a factory service manual or a Clymers and glance through it a bit. The tune up section would be a good starting point.

my bad yeah its the 1/4 coil pack
have gone through the whole bike tweeking bits here and there, timing was way out when i got as was the points gap. carbs had not been set up at all, header was blowing from head,silencer had no packing, plug gaps all over the place etc
slowly getting there and now it runs right i shall start sorting the running gear out, swing arm bearings need doing, forks need a dam good service, needs some rear shocks with some damping control.
all pretty normal stuff for a bike thats 30 years old :laugh:
cheers rob