Z1000H Aftermarket Injection System

Hi- I have a 1980 Z1000H , still with the original fuel injection system. I have fixed it many times - faults from the ECU box (a few times) to the injectors, however it's gone faulty again- what would be the best aftermarker ECU system to buy - megasquirt? are there any others ?- also should I change the injectors to (say) GPZ1100 ?. Should I also change the fuel pump over to a car one ? Any help appreciated !

Well, as you well know...the simplest solution is to carburate the bike. But you appear to want to keep the bike as stock (w/injectors) as possible. I don't know what the differences in fuel injection are between the H model and the G model (which is what North America got...Europe got the H model). That said, your options are to go megasquirt...at this point other KZR members should jump in who have more experience with converting to megasquirt:)

I'm in the midst of an interminably long build of an '81 GPz1100, using a megasquirt setup. I'm having the MS unit drive the ignition, which raises the complexity factor by 100. Looking at what would have needed to be changed just to have the MS run the FI, it's really a pretty easy setup. HOWEVER...
The biggest complicating factor is that it's laptop-tuned. Not much room on a bike for a passenger to sit playing with the laptop! I haven't found anybody with a good baseline file to start with, so it's all trial and error.
There's a guy over at The KawPen by the name of Duck who has MicroSquirted an injected KZ1000, but I think they used a slightly different format for the MicroSquirt files.
It's do-able, but a challenge.

MicroSquirt is the same as a MS-II, just smaller and with an extra coil driver.

You don't have to use a laptop, you can use a Palm PDA (and it's a lot easier to mount on a bike) with Palm Tune and Palm Log.

Thanks for the feedback. I must admit to thinking it was not going to be a lengthy changeover, however given the comments above, this does not seem the case. Have you also looked at the UK site - www.extraefi.co.uk/support.htm
Does this help any or is it still a real problem to set up ?
All in all while it probably would be a lot simpler to change to carbs, I wanted to keep the bike fuel injected as long as it wasn't going to be too much hassle... with hindsight, would you have changed to carbs given the probs you have had ?

As far as the changeover goes, there's Part I and Part II.

Part I being the physical installation, and Part II being the setup and tuning.

Part I is fairly easy, you can use your current temp sensors, possibly the TPS, and the current injectors, fuel pump, and wiring. You may need to replace your TPS, depending on what type it is. You are also going to need your wiring diagram so you can figure out what wires go where.

Part II is tuning, and it's most easily accomplished on a dyno (rolling road for UK), although many have done it without having access to a dyno.


Really, all your questions are probably answered at www.megamanual.com/index.html

Along with all the questions you didn't know enough to ask

Given all the comments below - I maybe would consider taking the simpler option of changing over to Carbs ! - which ones should I look for and would the cylinder head need changed , or simply the inlet manifold for carbs instead of injectors ?

If you decide to go the carb route, you should be looking for Mikuni BS34's from a KZ1000/1100. You'll have to change the intake manifolds to match the carbs and also plug the intake mounts in the head for the fuel injectors. I've seen this done by either replacing the H head with a late-model A or B head or by filling the injector port with epoxy. I suggest you contact George at www.wgcarbs.com for particulars re carb modifications.

Thought I'd chime in as I have been an idle member for close to three years now! I own a 1980 kz1000g and have converted it from fuel injection to carbs. Like you, I was able to fix and remedy the system a number of times (I even had a volume control knob that I would use to tweak the mixture while riding...not practical or safe). Ultimately, I bit the bullet and decided to swap to carbs. I would recommend going to the VM28ss carbs as they are fairly common and parts are incredibly cheap. You can use the standard carb boots, but the holes will have to be reamed out as the bolt spacing on the 1000g/h head is ~2mm wider than stock. Internally, the diameters match just fine. You will also need a new airbox (I tried pods for a little while, but ultimately went with a z1 airbox for reliability). The hardest part for me was deleting the injectors. I have seen some people use nickels with RTV, but I prefer a cleaner look, so I removed the head and threaded the injector ports on the head.

Overall, the swap is not very complicated. Just look at the wiring diagram and figure out what wires you need to disconnect. Feel free to drop me a line if you have any questions, and good luck!

cheers,
Jeff

How did the performance of your carb'd bike compare to the original injection system ? Gut feeling would tell me that you probably wouldn't notice much difference given that the old Fuel injection system was pretty rough?

Thought I'd just chime in here quickly. I've completed a "fuel-only" build of my KZ1000 on Megasquirt. If you want to keep the injectors on the bike, MS (either megasquirt I, II, or microsquirt) is certainly the best way to do it. You'll have much better & finer controll as well as all the tunability you can handle. With the stock system, you pretty much get what you get.

Steell is right, there's the hardware install and then there's the tuning. Hardware install is just that. Lay out the big parts, lay out the wiring, make it all fit.

The biggest hint I could possibly give to anyone would be - USE GOOD, KNOWN, FUNCTIONING PARTS. I thought I had all of that covered and parts issues severely derailed my tuning efforts.

Two other hints would be to:
1) get the injectors professionally cleaned off the bike. I used witchunter.com. Great service but most of all, there was a noticeable change in the idle and smoothness of the engine. Really helped tuning idle.
2) get the thing fired & idleing, then switch to a wideband O2 sensor for real AFR table tuning. WBO2 really really helps to tune better and to stay safe while doing it.

I use an old Palm IIIxe (<$15 on eBay) for catching & trending data then I download it to me shop PC for analysis.

My latest map is available to anyone who wants it as well as any other information I may be able to provide. I have a bunch of stuff, but not the latest changes, documented over at cyclemadness.com.

Hemicbx
York, PA
zamalis@gmail.com