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KZ 650 B2 - Carb number 2 is leaking gas all over the place.
- KOOL RYDER
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- KZ 650B2 / KZ 1000E
I know that this topic is common, but I am desparate to get things back to normal.
The fuel is pouring out the overflow tube every 8 seconds or so at about 10ml at a time. I have experienced this problem before and resolved it by thumping on the carb bowl with a rubber handel.
Well no such luck this time. The funny thing was that the bike was running beautifully until this happened.
It runs fine, but when I stop the bike the fuel starts pouring out again. I have tried "not so gently" placing the bike up on the center stand and also going over a bumpy section several times to try to get things back to normal.
I have never pulled the carbs before and could use a little advice on :
1) how to pull the carbs, tips
2)how to rebuild the #2 carb
3)how to put it back toether, tips?
I have a clymer. I have already spent 2000K getting this bike to this shape and still need a paint job and an exhaust so you might be able to understand why I would like to resolve this issue, money and I do not want to wait a month to hit the open road again.
Any advice other that blowing up the bike would be useful to me.
Kool RyderB)
Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008
1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST
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- anarki650
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Get a piece of clear tubing that fits into the float drain screw hole. Turn off your gas and drain the #2 carb. Cram/jam/thread/manipulate a 6" (give or take) piece of the clear tubing into the drain hole and hold the other end up alongside the carb bowl (so that the tubing is vertical). Turn on the gas and watch to see how high up the tubing the fuel flows. The Clymer manual should have the specs for the float height listed and I don't have mine right in front of me and am feeling a bit lazy ATM, so look that one up.
Adjust your float height to the proper level and I'm 99.99% certain you'll not have leaky carb problems any longer.
09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE
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- riverroad
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- 1980 1000LTD B4
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If not, there is a strong possibilty that a piece of grit is stuck in your fuel inlet, just above the needle seat.
if you can get to the float bowl screws, thake the number two float bowl off, push the hinge pin out that holds the float, remove the float, then remove the needle and seat, and check for dirt in the orifice. Also check and make sure the needle slips easily in and out of the seat. If it binds at all, clean out the seat with some beartex ot a little piece of sandpaper.
Since its in the number two carb, it might be easier to just pull the whole carb rack, then pull the float bowl.
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- wiredgeorge
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wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- anarki650
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09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE
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- wiredgeorge
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wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- kawaidioot
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You've got a float either set too high or sticking in the body of the carb (probably from being set too high). The good news is it's easy enough to fix.
Get a piece of clear tubing that fits into the float drain screw hole. Turn off your gas and drain the #2 carb. Cram/jam/thread/manipulate a 6" (give or take) piece of the clear tubing into the drain hole and hold the other end up alongside the carb bowl (so that the tubing is vertical). Turn on the gas and watch to see how high up the tubing the fuel flows. The Clymer manual should have the specs for the float height listed and I don't have mine right in front of me and am feeling a bit lazy ATM, so look that one up.
Adjust your float height to the proper level and I'm 99.99% certain you'll not have leaky carb problems any longer.
...., the "sticking"-part is what i think...., cleaning of the float bowl and parts would be helpful.
Really,...these parts can't be clean enough!
Zevenhuizen, Holland, Europe.
a good 15 ft below sea-level....
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- KOOL RYDER
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- KZ 650B2 / KZ 1000E
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All I had to do was go and get a new O-Ring and install it.
Afterwards I decided that I wanted to test it out. I started the bike up and the carb problem raised it ugly head again.
I promptly grabbed the hammer and a piece of round wood 8 - 10 inches long and gave the carb 2 a thumping with a decent amount of force. I have tried this before but I guess I did it too gingerly. This time I gave it 3 or 4 good whacks. After crossing my fingers, put the gass in her and volia.
Cost $0.00, high level of frustration, hammer, scrap wood
I know I need to clean them out this winter, but for now I am laughing. After replacing the torn O ring in the petcock the bike works a lot better.
Thanks for all the help.
Kool Ryder
Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008
1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST
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- KOOL RYDER
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- KZ 650B2 / KZ 1000E
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It was a stock 78 B2 with a vacume petcock and no accel pump.
I will make an effort to elaborate in the future based upon your feedback.
Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008
1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST
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- Philip Meaney
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I put a filter in the gasline after the last car cleaning and haven't had a problem since. Total cost of the fix was about 5 bucks and it took 15 minutes - lots of value for the cost.
80 750 H1
85 750 Turbo
84 GPz 750
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