problem returning to idle

Hopefully this is a simple fix, I just installed a set of Mikuni RS36's on my 1135 big bore, runs like a screaming demon, however when you blip the throttle, or anytime it is returning to an idle the rpm's come down real slow. I have checked for vacuum leaks around the carb holders, and made sure the cables are free and I checked to make sure the carbs were snapping back to the idle position. What could be going on or is this normal for the smooth bores? I am running pod filters and a 4 into 1 Vance and hines.

Thanks

Rob

Have you read the plugs yet? I believe that one symptom of lean mixture can be a bit of runon after closing the throttle.

KZCSI

Hmm I'm waiting with baited breath .. cause I have a similar problem, and all I did was change the carb holders. The throttle just hangs there and VERY slowly falls back to idle. An I too checked for leaks and bound cable and linkage. I also am running pods and a VH 4/1

Dang where Wire George when ya need him...lol

wiredgeorge is either sleeping or taking care of his paying customers most of the time. I only look at this board once or twice a day for a short time... in the evenings when I want excitement, I work jig saw puzzles.
hehehe

I didn't respond to this thread because I have little RS series carb experience. I would look carefully at the throttle spring. The VM33 has the wimpiest spring in all creation and will sometimes not have enough tension to return the slides positively. They give you a number of holes to change spring tension and if you reclip the spring to an alternate hole, you can generally get more tension and the slides will shut. I didn't really want to mention this as I have NO idea if this issue translates to the RS carbs. I don't think answers are helpful if the info is correct but for the wrong application. Only confuses things.

Well dang it. I should have said that I'm still running the stock carbs on my 80 750e the cv 'kunies 34's I think. guess I will have to pull the rack and double check the backs of the rubbers and be sure their sealed. Would putting some RTV under them help?

I need answers to this one too, 'cept I'm running CV Keihin 30s on my ZR550 (just a grown up KZ550 when you get down to it!)

I need to check fuel mixture and float levels when I get home, however the plugs looked great when I pulled them before starting my base gasket swap, so I don't think it's a float problem.

I'm going to drain the bowls and see if there's any crap in there though, because something could have gotten caught in the float needle and kept it open.

Flat slides tend to stick and that´s why they must have 2 cables: one to pull slides up and another to pull them back down.´When you "blib" the throttle do you turn it back down or just expect slides to drop automatically? They won´t drop very fast.

Adjusting the two cables can be a bit tricky. There should be only a very little slack between the cables otherwise slides won´t come all the way down. On the other hand if the pull-down -cable is too tight it will again stop slides from going all the way down. Maybe you should check cable adjustments? I set up mine to have just a little slack and making absolutely shure that you can drop slides all the way down by turning throttle all the way in.

Two other possible reasons are air leak or way too lean idle mixture.