And you thought you were through with me

Wildh2oskier wrote:

...Now where do I find out more on this coil modification?

Who's got your back, baby?

www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option=com_con...view&id=12&Itemid=26

A minute or two of spinning the engine??
I hope you are exaggerating, 15 seconds is the max to spin a starter without stopping to let it cool down, and I cringe when someone exceeds 10 seconds.
On my 79 750 twin I give the starter button a brief push to start it cold, when it's warm I merely brush the starter button. The motor might make two revolutions before starting cold, warm it don't even make one. GPzInfested's GPz750 Turbo is the same way, and now my brother (GPzInfested's Dad) is nagging us to pull his KZ1000M2 into the shop and make it start the same way

Wildh2oskier wrote:

QUOTE:
...Now where do I find out more on this coil modification?

This is how I implemented the WG Coil Re-powering mod on my '77 KZ650-B1:

s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh311/bill_w...agramIssue5-976X.jpg

It was one of the best things I did for my bike. Best of success.

bountyhunter wrote: ....I have seen that will make a bike a cranky starter in the 1 - 2 hour range is the needle jets may not be seating tight....

What does this mean? What do you mean by a needle jet. The needle jet is the small bit that sticks up into the bottom of the venturi and the jet needle fits into. It is press fit and it makes not the slightest difference if it is tight or loose. On both the BS34 and BS38, the needle jet is integrated into the main jet holder tube.

Hey Bill Wilcox, Your relays don't make sense to me... you have a relay for the coils and the headlight... got that. What does the middle relay do? I am always looking for ways at upgrading and modernizing the wiring on my bikes.

wiredgeorge wrote:

bountyhunter wrote: ....I have seen that will make a bike a cranky starter in the 1 - 2 hour range is the needle jets may not be seating tight....

What does this mean? What do you mean by a needle jet.

Sorry, old age brain lock. I meant the needles that fit into the brass seats and are pushed up by the float tang to stop the gas flow into the bowl. We used to call those needles because they have a sharp end on them (cone shaped). The parts list calls them "float valves".

The tip will oxidize and gradually don't have a good seal and gas seeps by as it sits and floods the engine.

They are needles... float needles (not jets). The tips don't work after awhile mainly because they deform. A notch gets worn where they seat. The seats themselves don't seem to wear out as quickly as the steel float needles and the seats are brass. A float valve is the float seat and float needle combination. You usually make some sense but that one through me... makes sense now! If the needle ain't seating proper, the carb will flood or at least be rich and that might make it harder to start.

I'm a big believer in taking the float needles out at least 2 times a year and chucking them up a hand drill and smoothing the tip with #600 paper to keep them dead smooth.

I also polish the brass seats with a Q-tip and brass polish inside where the needle goes. You can put them in the drill and spin them and use the end of the Q-tip. Brass actually oxidizes which is why the brass parts start out shiny and end up dull and rough feeling after a while.

Since the needle to seat fit is metal-on-metal, if the metal isn't smooth it leaks worse.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Hey Bill Wilcox, Your relays don't make sense to me... you have a relay for the coils and the headlight... got that. What does the middle relay do? I am always looking for ways at upgrading and modernizing the wiring on my bikes.

WG... sorry, been on the road trying to make a living for the last few weeks.

Thanks for your interest in this last circuit upgrade... I have redrawn most of the circuit (original crashed) and added a State Diagram to test out my concept and they confirm that it should work (migh have been faster to acutaly make the darn thing but I just want to ride while the riding's good).

Here's the description:

Head Light will not turn ON until the start button has been pushed and released once.

Relay A was added to compensate for the poor wiring, contacts and switches typically found in the start circuit of older bikes. If electricals are good it could be eliminated.

Relay B was added to prevent the starter from being turned ON continuously by the Latching Relay C. It could be eliminated by one blocking diode.

Relay C is the delay element and it was added to prevent the Head Light from turning ON until the start button is pressed for the first time.

Relay D is the Head Light control element and it was added to prevent the Head Light form turning ON anytime the start button is pressed.

The HI/LO Relay was added to compensate for poor wiring, contacts and switches in the Dimmer Switch circuit. Here too, If electricals are good it could be eliminated.

Objective:
Prevents the Head Light from coming on when the Ignition is moved from the OFF position to the ON position. Light will only come on after the Start button has been pushed the first time whether or not the engine actually started. This helps prevent drain on the battery by the Head Light.

Notes:
1) Will not work with kick start.
2) Not all relays are "fail to safe" such that failure of one or more relays will turn the Head Light OFF without warning. Act accordingly.

Here's the State Diagram:



The associated Wiring Diagram is on the next post...

Don't know how to get multiple diagrams on one page...




There are higher resolution copies of both on my photobucket site:


s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh311/bill_w...lay%20Modifications/

Don't know how to make a one word link either... how do I get through a day? :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Let me know if this answers your question or not.

Best of success.

Wiring is a bit beyond me, but BBCode I do understand.

To make a 'one-word-link', format it like this:
Notice the equal sign{url=.

the words CLICK HERE will be the clickable part, and all the person sees when reading.

If you Quote this post, you can see the format in the following example:
g00gLe

and tadaaaaaaaa!

My Photobucket

They sure do grow'em smart in Sioux Falls.

Thanks OLTIMER.