Stock 82' CSR 750 Stock Jetting?

Im bringing a 750 Twin back to life for a freind. The bike was rebuilt at about 36K miles. And has over 160lbs of compression in each cylinder. Starts on the first kick every time. But. It has the same minor problems it had before it sat for 5 years. My questions are what are the stock jets suppose to be? What is the base line for air screw? Also Can I still get ahold of the rubber boots?

The reason I ask these things is its a little bit lean at idle, And breaks up badly and pops at wide open throttle and wont get past about 6500Rpms. It just stops revving. I think It just needs a bigger main jet is all, the people who "rebuilt" the carbs before I got ahold of them had no idea what they were doing...Just trying to get it right for him. sorry for the long read.


Any help is greatly apprciated!
Thanks.

Stock main jet is 115, pilot 45, air screw 1.5-2.5 turns out from lightly seated. Ya may be able to get boots from Z1, not sure. Hope this helps.

Are you running stock exhaust and airbox?

Are these Mikunis BS38 or BS34?

Stock jets on the BS38 are 125 main and 45 pilot, so I guess these carbs are different model.

Stock exhaust and airbox. Im not sure if they are 38 or 34. I guess I can measure and go off that to what jets need to be in it. The pilot jet just seems to large becuase no matter where I put the airscrew it wont not be rich at idle-3K rpms. And pops at wide open throttle, they are synced perfectly. I think I have an ignition problem like a bad coil/wires.

your bike came stock w/Mikuni BS34's, the above jet sizes are stock for the BS34's

How will I know when the airscrews are correct? And do I turn them out to lean it out, and in to richen it? Or the other way round?

The acceleration problem was the plug caps not being connected correctly. But still does it and hesitates occasionally..

With stock pilot jets, the pilot mixture screws will be correct at about 1 3/4 turns out from lightly seated. You can check this by warming your bike and at idle, turn the mixture screw on #1 carb back and forth about 1/2 turn either way and listen for max idle. It won't vary much and sometimes you can't make much difference but get the idle sounding like it maxes. If you need to turn the idle down, do so. Then repeat for #2. Now your mix screws are correct. Sync and your carbs' pilot mixture is adjusted as best it can be without using an EGA and the bike will smooth out from the sync.

If it's hard to pick up the max idle RPM, another easy way is this:

Turn the mix screw in until you hear the engin start running slow and sputting from lack of fuel.

Slowly open the screw (turn CCW) until the engine speeds up and keep going until you just hear the RPM start to drop or run unevenly.

Turn the screw back in half way between the initial too lean point and the final too rich point. That should be about right.

Awsome info! As soon as I get home I will double check everything to eliminate the carbs as a problem.

Ive got another quick question. I need to double check my fuel service level. What is it suppose to be?