carb problem ............ i don't have any

ok i have a fuel injected bike the z-1 classic.
got it running after many years of sleeping.
im getting popping/backfiring
this is what ive done so far:dry: :huh: :ohmy: :kiss: :blink:
1# so i pull the plugs and jug #1 is fouled and other three are ok
2# so the coil must be ok, but i check to see the spark by grabbing an old plug , make the gap huge and fire it up to look at the spark, seems to be jumping well
3# so i think injector so i swap the injector with jug #4
the problem still stays in number 1
4# check compression all four are between 130-150 with #1 being 145 and # 4 jug being 150
5# throw hands up in air come to kz forum and ask
6# ask question- what is it?
7# the popping is between 4-6k rpm going up down or steady and with some at idle but none when new plugs are put in but a matter of minutes its doing it again

thanks,

ps. everytime i ask my friend about it he laughs and says i got a fresh set of 26's i can put on it. would like to keep the injection system if possible.
pss. it has a new battery and spark plugs, no air filter(looking to get something other than stock i can put on the end of it)

Because the problem is limited to one cylinder, and switching injectors had no effect, you have just eliminated the fuel system from the list of possible causes.

So the problem is either mechanical or electrical.

Use a multimeter and measure the resistance between number 1 and number 4 plug wires, if it's more than 20k ohms replace the plug wires.

If you are fouling the same plug even after you swapped the injectors, it does sound like the electrical signal to that injector is bad (holding it open too much). Maybe the wiring to that injector is defective or the controller module has a problem with the output signal on that channel.

Is it possible to swap the connector between two injectors to test the wiring? I think two cylinders fire together so the injectors should be running in sync on that set of pistons.

bountyhunter wrote:

If you are fouling the same plug even after you swapped the injectors, it does sound like the electrical signal to that injector is bad (holding it open too much). Maybe the wiring to that injector is defective or the controller module has a problem with the output signal on that channel.

Is it possible to swap the connector between two injectors to test the wiring? I think two cylinders fire together so the injectors should be running in sync on that set of pistons.

i dont know is it too fires one squirt? or two squirt two fires?

It either fires two injectors at once or four injectors at once, and if I had to bet I would bet on it being four injectors at once. If I had a wiring diagram I could tell you with certainty which way it works.

Did you measure the resistance between the two coil wires like I posted earlier?

If you want to persist in blaming the fuel system even after I told you that wasn't the problem, then I'm wasting my time here and won't post in this thread again. You may not understand EFI systems, but I do.

By the way, the odds against the scenario bountyhunter posted approach infinity.

On second thought, it;s obvious I'm wasting my time trying to help you.

WOW steel i wasn't refusing your help im actually doing what you said.
(haven't yet as i have been busy but i will)

i was just asking for information sake because i would like to understand my bike more.

in no way was i disregarding what you said -Ive seen what you post on other threads and i value what you say

any way it's the last two days of school so i will post when i test.

peace SBT

ok measured the ohms and the ohms on the side that had the fouling plug had 25k the side that seemed to be running well had around 46k any way - i scraped the coils (the wires were on that i saw no way of changing the wires)
i went ahead and put on some dyna coils that i picked up on ebay they seemed to have 14.2k ohms a piece. so i put those on with new wires. didnt seem to help

but there is a resistor inline before the coils do I scrap that?
any way thats where i am at

steell hope you are having a better day:)

School Teacher wrote:

ok measured the ohms and the ohms on the side that had the fouling plug had 25k the side that seemed to be running well had around 46k any way - i scraped the coils (the wires were on that i saw no way of changing the wires)

TNot sure what the resistance spec is for your coils. Odd that the "good" one is twice as high as the other one?





School Teacher wrote:

i went ahead and put on some dyna coils that i picked up on ebay they seemed to have 14.2k ohms a piece. so i put those on with new wires. didnt seem to help

but there is a resistor inline before the coils do I scrap that?any way thats where i am at

Whoa?

You have a ballast resistor in series with your coils?

I didn't know Kawi had any like that. I remember the dealer mechanics telling me that Kawi only used 12V coils (the coils should have 12V directly on the positive terminals).

I'm confused....

But I am pretty sure the Dyna coils are NOT designed to work with an external ballast resistor.

BTW: those resitors were notorious for failing and could cause crappy spark from one of your coils....

ok ripped off resistor rewired it and the all the plugs are now fouling and the #1 looks the worst

any ideas

steel ya gonna chime in here?

School Teacher wrote:

ok ripped off resistor rewired it and the all the plugs are now fouling and the #1 looks the worst

any ideas?

If I understand it went like this:

1) You had one plug fouling.

2) You replaced both stock coils with Dyna coils and there was no change. Three plugs OK, one fouling.

3) Bypassed ballast resistor and it got worse.

IMHO, #2 tells me that the original coils never were the problem. Fouling the plug does not automatically mean ignition problem, but it could be.

You might want to put the igniton back to stock as the new coils did not fix the problem and then.

1) Please put a timing light on each plug lead and verify a steady spark on each at idle.

2) Can you do a stethescope (or long stick to your ear) laid gently against the "bad" injector to see if you hear it clicking indicating it is operating?

A question: If you put a new or cleaned plug into the "fouled" location, does it run better for a while until it fouls the plug? Or no change at all?

ok update- i was getting like 5v to the coils off the ign switch i took a relay and wired up the coils directly using the relay and ign switch. and wala things are a ton better though ive only done one decent test drive, it seem s to be working as a=of now im gonna gas er up and go i will report later,