Syncing 4 carbs with 2 gauges?

Hey all,

Is this feasible?

Could I sync 1&2, then sync 3&4, then sync both banks by doing 3&4?

Using only 2 gauges at a time?

1981 KZ1000M1 CSR

Cheers.

yes you can it could be hard though seeing how the more corrections you make the more the engine will idle differently. Never hurts to try though

OK - so this may not be the way to go... I tried it last night, with the $30 Crappytire vacuum gauges. After warming, I connected two gauges (1 to each #1 & #2 cylinder), connected aux. fuel line, and I was good to go.
Yeah right...

I fired up the bike and the gauges were flailing! At idle, the gauges would bounce from 1 extreme to the other. I tried to rev the engine up to about 4K, and that seemed to settle them a little, but they were still nearly impossible to read, and even harder to balance the carbs (move the screw). Then... The needle on one of the gauges just popped right off into itself. AND THEN THE OTHER :ohmy: :silly: :side: :S

I'm going crazy...

Does a manometer flail like this? I should probly wedge the throttle and use a big fan to cool the bike?

Help...:blink:

Z1E caries at least three manometer versions

Z1E - 1st

Z1E - 2nd

Z1E - 3rd

Another option is the Morgan Carbtune

Morgan

Would doubt feasibility of synching 4 carbs with only two gauges, regardless of quality of gauges.

The flailing about may be due to lack of restrictors inside the tubes.

Fan is good!

Good Luck!

On a ZG1000 you balance 1&2 and 3&4 then the pairs together but on your bike if I didn't have a 4 rack of vacuum gages, a Morgan or what I use then I'd connect one to carb#3 then move the other to the other 3 carbs setting them to same level. Sounds like you are missing the snubbers to prevent the bouncing you are experiencing. There is a guy on eBay that sells vacuum gages ans the snubbers for dirt cheap, I think around $20 bucks plus shipping for a set of 4. There was a link on the COG site I believe...


I use a TwinMax, works well on 4 multi's and is all electronic.

www.rlmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/eShop/inde...=582&product=TwinMax

I recommend the Holeshot gauges. www.holeshot.com/tools/ They come with adjustable valves to control the needle bounce, and they have no risk of introducing a liquid into your engine. I like the "carb sticks" too, but I'm not willing to risk sucking mercury into my engine, and of course, spraying it out the exhaust into my garage. I don't need my own toxic waste site.

I used the yard stick method this weekend (two at a time).
Did 1&2, then 3&4, then 2&3, then rechecked 3&4 and 1&2
There's a long thread on here somewhere from a year ago...
Here's the link to the homemade tool

www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp

OOOOH! OK! I understand now. There has to be some kind of restrictor in order to prevent the loss of vacuum reading between strokes. Ok, well I'm ordering a manometer and this cool colortune thing ( has a glass window in sparkplug to see fuel air ratio). Thats just cool!

Thanks for all your help!

Cheers!

I have a colortune, it's OK but not something to get really excited about IMHO. The variances in the colors will be hard to see unless you do it in a darkened garage. Probably is better on non-pumpers.

On a constant velocity assembly, you balance 1 & 2, then 3 & 4 then 1/2 to 3/4. You could theoretically balance the carbs using two gauges by first putting the gauges on 1 & 2 and balance them (cap vacuum ports on 3 and 4 while doing this). Then cap 1 & 2 and install the hoses from the gauges on 3 & 4 and balance. Last, put the hoses on 1 & 4 and cap 2 & 3 and balance the right pair to the left.

In the hose end near the gauge, you will need to install a restrictor in each hose. You can use a piece of plastic and drill a very small diameter hole in it and fit the plastic in the hose. The hole will need to be exactly the same for each fabricated restrictor.