Won't return to idle between shifts

Okay..got it back together and no more vac leaks around the boots! I just put a thin coat of permatex on them. Temp fix..it idles real nice now so I put enough stuff back on the bike to take a ride around the block.
Everything seems pretty cool, but when shifting between gears, it does not idle down, so when you shift, the engine revs up when you pull in the clutch just enough to be weird.
It does idle down, but it takes too long.What could this be? nothing is hanging up like throttle cable etc. It just seems slow to idle back down? I don't know. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks guys...Jeff

I'm thinking one of two things, did you at least bench sync the carbs(one or two carbs open too far at idle position can cause a fast idle hangup)? And(or) if the idle mixture screws are out too far, that may also cause a fast idle hangup.

Slow idle return = too lean?

look inside carbs to verify that the cable is indeed not sticking .the slides should return to bottom when not running.if they are u likely have a lean issue.
did u check for an air leak by wd40 or the like all around the boots and vac lines?

Try lubricating both throttle cables with a chain lube until it drips out the end of the cables and also properly adjust the throttle stop screw adjuster in the carb rack (if equipped) Also be sure to generously lubricate the throttle tube (underneath the right handgrip and in between the metal handlebar. With all these parts lubed up you should be good to go. Also, check for proper tightness on the both the push and pull throttle cables. They should both be adjusted so they smoothly snap back to idle speed with a minimal "loose" feel. Everything should feel relatively tight, Good luck!

I just did this today on my bike because the throttle action was stiff and the throttle grip would never snap back to idling. This worked for me. Just remember, there are many opportunities for this too happen because there may be two or more "adjusters" on the throttle cables, as well as other possible problems metioned here. Even if you thought the cables are properly lubed, go ahead and lube them again anyway. It won't make the throttle response any slower, but it may allow the 'snap back' to idle speed happen that much quicker. Also make sure you adjust the idle screw to 900 rpm's for 900cc engine and 1000 rpm's for 1000cc engine.

What type of carburetors are being asked about. It does make a difference in the answer I guess.

Hey guys thanks for all the help!
I just read through the suggestions made. I have had the throttle grip off,put a drag bar on it. no hang ups there.
lubed the cable until it drips out the other end. It only has the one cable,not the push pull style. I have leak checked the boots with carb cleaner and had a leak, but took care of that before I posted this problem. Syncro. sound like a good poss. or idle mixture. I got to get off here for now but will be back soon!

Keihin carbs...vacuum slides...single cable...would like to know what the carbs are for sure. I will get some pics,maybe even today yet. Thanks Again!
Jeff

Go into your profile and edit your signature to reflect your location, bike model and year and it will make solving tech issues a lot simpler. Good luck.

I just noticed on the classifieds here, my carbs are the Kiehin cv34's at least that is exaclty what they look like.

Did you change the cable when you put the shorter bars on?

Any progress on this?

Not resolved yet, but haven't had much time either.
No I did not replace the cable, it was fine so I am using it for now.You can see the linkage for the carbs snap back to normal position quickly, so it is not a cable issue.
It is just a bit long, but I will buy a new one later on.
Thanks!
I left pictures in the gallery today!