To plug or not to plug...

THAT is the question. heh heh

Hey all I have a carb vaccum line question. Here's a crappy picture of what my bike has. ('81 LTD550)



On the left, circled is the nipple fitting in question (with a plug on it). There is another one on the left side carb, they go to a "T" fitting and then on to the diaphram circled in the pic on the right. The arrow points to the line coming from the carbs. The diaphram also has hoses that run to either cam cover (The right circle passes through the hose)

I believe this is California emissions crap.

It's all gone now. I replaced the diaphram with an emgo breather, and plugged the two carb vaccuum nipples, but I wanted to make sure I should plug them and not leave them open.

Has anyone else dealt with these lines?


Ride'on,

~CRASH!~

Plug 'em. If they are not connected to anything and doing work of some sort they are massive intake leaks. Make sure you still have a vac line running to your tank petcock, if you have that style petcock or you will not have gas unless petcock set to PRIME.

I figured I should plug them, (and already did) but I wanted to get an expert opinion. I still have the vaccum line leading to my petcock as well as the vents for the floatbowls.

Thanks for the advice.


Ride'on,

~CRASH!~

An "expert" opinion! lol and keeps on lol, stops to catch breath and continues to lol.

At the risk of getting on some homeland security alert list, I'd like to inform you that your air injection system serves to add fresh, filtered air to the exhaust port where it supposedly helps unburned fuel combust before exiting the exhaust system. To do this the system uses reed valves which are actuated by fluctuations in the pressure in the exhaust system. Whenever the system experiences a negative pressure the reed valve opens and allows air to enter the exhaust port area. Despite Ma Kaw's intention the main result of all this technology is to clutter up the area between the top frame tubes and the valve cover. Several after market manufacturers sell "block off plates" which are used to eliminate this whole system. If I read your post correctly you added a breather to the hoses connected to the reed valve covers. What you have done is to recreate the original function. If you wish to clean up the top of your engine I suggest that you be sure that you have blocked off the vacuum connections and either fill the reed valve connections with JB Weld putty or purchase some block off plates.
KZCSI

KZCSI wrote:

At the risk of getting on some homeland security alert list

<Looks at screen name>

KZ CSI(KZ Crime Scene Investigator)?!?

Umm... Yes sir I'll replace the OEM equipment at once, sir. I didn't mean to harm the environment.

:dry:

heh heh

Thanks for the info KZ ! As soon as I read "block off plates" I realized when I ditched the smog stuff off my RC51 I made block off plates for the same purpose. Now I feel stupid for not realizing I should've just blocked them off (and saved $15 on the filter) to begin with.



Ride'on,

~CRASH!~

Hey Crash,
Constructor Services, Inc. is my window and door company. I've been in business under that name since 1994.

KZCSI

You should block the ports on the valve cover and not vent them. The reed valve system is still in use on most Kawasakis and is responsible for a lot of backfiring and clutter. They are supposed to be for emissions. If you are not using it, plug the hoses that lead to the valve cover or the cover itself!

I bought bigger 5/8" rubber caps and put them over the ports on each side of the exhaust side valve covers, used the same clamps that were originally on the rubber hoses going to the vacuum switch or what ever that thing is called. The rubber caps take up no room and it was cheap... I used a larger one to block the hole in the airbox where the large hose came from the same smog stuff...