GPZ 750 (1982)

Good Day,

I'm new to this forum. Actually I'm new to riding! I just recently bought my first street bike. I am working with a low budget being in College so I bout a 1982 GPZ 750 that didn't run. Since Then A friend of mine and I Got the Bike running!

I have limited experience with Carbs, I would love to know if the Carburator has an air screw? My Motor is the KZ 750 R1 Model. Any help would be really helpful!

Thank you So Much

Alex Giordano

Hello Alex

I think the below site will answer your present and future questions about the bike. It is a downloadable Kawasaki shop manual for your bike. Just follow the internal links.

kz.mbsween.com

Well I downloaded that Maunual, and it seems to be real close to my bike. However, I believe that manual only covers the KZ 750 H1 and E1.... My model Engine is the R1...

This manual will definetly get me in the ball park range but will this manual work for my model also?

Working on this bike I have an interesting set of symptoms. I wonder if any of you have experienced something like this as well?

The bike is difficult to start Usually using a can of starting fluid through the air box to start. Once warm my bike will idle by itself. But even when the Idle screw is fully open is only idling at about 2000 rpms. this is not the problem the problem comes when you rev the rpms up with the idle screw set so high the engine will then stick at 4000 rpms and stay there until i unscrew the idle screw almost all the way down. the bike wont stay running however unless i turn the idle way back up again. ? I am very puzzled by this problem.

I have checked for vacuum leak. I had one to begin with but have since taken care of it. and besides the idle only gets stuck above 4000 once you manually rev the engine up past 4000. It will idle normally at about 2000 rpms with the idle screw set all the way open until messed with.

One other thought is that I have taken the bike out on a ride. While riding I can turn the idle screw down about 2/3rds of the way down and my bike will ride fine until I come to a stop. the engine does not stick at 4000 while I am riding but it will stall out if I let out the gas all the way??

So You may see my frustration here. Any Help or Advice would be Great!!!

Thank you Again

Alex Gio

That is the manual for your bike...anything different from the bulk of the body of material is handled in a supplement ...this manual covers models KZ750E1/2/3, KZ750H1/2/3, KZ750L1/2/3, KZ750R1, KZ700A1 and ZX750A1/2.

Congratulations and Welcome. The GPz750 is a GREAT bike.
If it won't start easily when cold you probably have a problem with the enrichment circuit. Pull the carbs and clean out the 26 yrs of crap they have probably accumulated. Mine were full of dirt and the jets were plugged with dirt and varnish. I had the same cold start symptoms as you until I pulled the carbs and cleaned them (twice). Now it starts right up... As for the air screw after you clean out the carbs back them out 1 1/2 turns and leave them alone.
HTH,
Jim

BTW My Haynes manual is pretty good for the Kz750s. I think it was only about $20.

Thanks your right My Error....

I appreciate your help so much thanks!

Alex Gio

About those air screws?

How do you suggest getting the aluminum caps out of the recess they are in???? I dont really know the best way to go about doing that.

Also while on the topic of difficult things to remove... DO any of you have any good suggestions as to how to remove a stripped pilot jet? Its a pretty sticky situation. they are in really well. I already kinda stripped one and I am assuming that the other three will be just as difficult...

Thanks

Gio

Hi, well I am new to the site too but I had the same problems your are having. To remove my stripped pilot I had to drill it out a little bigger and then use and easy-out to turn the jet out(an easy-out is a reverse threaded spike type tool, not sure that is what they are referred to). I removed the caps over the air screws by SLOWLY drilling a hole into the cap itself and then using a smaller flat head screwdriver to pry the caps out. I hope I was clear and answered your questions!

check to make sure that you have the carbs connected correctly. Make sure the vent lines are open and wherever the smog hoses attach are correct. Try removing the smog equipment all together by running a hose from port to port on the front of the valve cover, and blocking off the ports where it attaches to the carbs. I've had simmilar problems with some of my previous bikes and it always turned out that I just connected all the hoses wrong. Causes a major air leak. I'm pretty sure 2000 rpm is still too high of an idle if the throttle screw is turned all the way out.

make sure the air box is on it .