mixture screws

I feel really dumb right now! One of the air/fuel mixture screws that are located on the top of my carbs has been stripped... by me!! :blush: It wasnt moving and so I soaked it in lubricant. Then I went to turn it after a good soaking and it felt as if it was turning slowly. What was actually happening was I was just shaving that nice brass slot in the adjuster off. How do I fix that or get it out in order to replace it!

Seems like a good time to pull the carb off.

I would pull the carb apart and soak the casing (with the screw in it) immersed in some type of solvent to try to get that screw unglued. Maybe heating and cooling it would help break it loose as well (I am not sure if the brass or aluminum will expand more quickly, but it works with stuck jar lids)

then work with drill bits and taps to try to back that thing out.

OR

Maybe take just the casing to a shop to have a pro try to extract the screw for you.

OR

Wiredgeorge is the carb stud, I bet he might know where to get another single casing. Screw the stripped screw....

What problems could arise from taking one out of four carbs apart? Do unto all as you do to one? Hmmm.

I don't imagine that it would be a good idea to try to get a stuck screw out of the carb with the carb still assembled and on the bike though, too good a chance to get some metal flake deep in a carb where it does not belong.

jrjstuff wrote:

I feel really dumb right now! One of the air/fuel mixture screws that are located on the top of my carbs has been stripped... by me!! :blush: It wasn't moving and so I soaked it in lubricant. Then I went to turn it after a good soaking and it felt as if it was turning slowly. What was actually happening was I was just shaving that nice brass slot in the adjuster off. How do I fix that or get it out in order to replace it!

If you didn't completely destroy the slot try soaking it in PB for a week changing the PB daily. After a couple of days of soaking try lightly (I do mean lightly here) tapping a screw driver while in the slot of the adjuster. DON"T TRY AND TURN IT YET, just tap it lightly to allow the PB to get deeper. After a week then try to tighten first just a little, spray more PB and let sit overnight. The next day is the telling if you have been successful or not. Safely clamp the carb body and with a good tipped screwdriver try backing it out now. if no go you have a couple of options. Use heat but don't concentrate it alternating with cooling it. Don't go nuts here or you will hear a "tink" and it won't be that little fairy from Peter Pan! :laugh: There is also a electrolytic method that they use on boats and old antique engines that used to use a lot of brass mixed with other metals you can try, just do a search on Google for these kind of support sites.

Using an easy-out in that small of an area would be tricky, especially getting the center punched right so you can have the EO work right. If you know the rest of the carbs are good then contact George for the cost of just one carb or body, if they are all pretty iffy then check with George or look on eBay for a set. If you go the eBay way you will at least end up with a lot of spare parts as you progress through the rebuild if you need them.

Good luck

Post edited by: KZ_Rage, at: 2008/02/24 11:54

thank you guys. Seeings how I am far from rich I will be trying my hardest to get that out, so I guess its off to soakin I go!!