Grrr. Throttle still sticks

So I replaced the frayed cable today and am still having throttle problems. If I even barely turn the throttle and let go the engine will rev up real high until I "pop" the throttle. Then it calms back down and idles smooth, until I touch the throttle again and I'm back on cruise control... I know there is way more than enough slack in the pull cable but maybe there isn't enough in the push....
it seems like I fixed it before by spraying wd-40 on everything so I will try that again with actual silicone spray lube tomorrow..
Anything else I should look for?
(If you are going to tell me the carbs are screwed then please preface with a *warning*. I want to be sitting down.

Yes, check your cable adjustment (both) If still having a problem then I suggest unhooking both cables from carbs and start motor. If you can move carb throttle and problem is gone then you know something is up with cables or control. My throttle was sticking once and all I had to do was lube throttle shaft where it spins on handle bar.

Maybe I misunderstood your answer but the throttle handle itself doesnt seem to be sticking at all. Is that what you meant?

Bulemeanie is suggesting that if you disconnect both cables from the carb rack and operate the carbs from there and still have the same problem the problem is *Warning* in your carbs. He's right though, it may be as simple as lubricating the throttle shaft. If the bike returns to idle with the cables removed then the problem is in the cables.

kzcsi

Probably unrelated to your problem, but here is what happened to me last year.

Last summer I put new grips on the SR and kind of forgot about it. Then I put some things back together including the carb rack and I noticed that the throttle was very slow to close. A bit of troubleshooting revealed the twist grip was not free. I pulled it off and found the grip glue collected at the closed end at the grip and then setup between the grip sleeve and the bar end. I cleaned it out and it's working great.

Yeah, I'm afraid the problem is deeper than that. The throttle snaps closed pretty nicely, just doesn't seem to pass the message on. Of course, it's hard to tell because it works most of the time before I actually get out on the road and by the time I get back I am too frustrated to mess with it.
I am going to just soak stuff in spray silicone lube tomorrow and hope for the best

Post edited by: Afrosemite, at: 2008/02/22 22:18

Coming to mind here are some of the easier things to check as possibilities for idle failing to settle down after throttle snaps shut --

Clean and gap points;
Assure correct ignition timing;
Assure proper operation of automatic advancer unit (assure not sticking and quickly and freely returning to idle position after brief rev).

Assure no air leak (intrusion of outside air into fuel mixture) -- carb holders not cracked and leaking; vacuum nipple caps secure and not leaking; clamps tight and secure holding carbs into carb holders.

Pilot screws adjusted properly. If side located, could start at 1.5 turns out from lightly seated, and adjust from there. Guessing should fall somewhere between one turn and 2 turns out. Check for missing o-ring on pilot adjuster screw.

Good Luck!

EDIT: Oops, lucky you -- no points! :lol:

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/02/23 08:49

Thanks for the tips. The snow up here in the mountains may keep me from working on it today, but that will just give me extra time to figure out exactly how to follow your advice
I'll hope for the best

Also, can you think of any reason that "popping" the throttle would so consistently fix it?

I would first double-check for properly operating automatic advancer unit to assure is not sticking and is quickly and freely returning to idle position after brief rev. Hanging in advanced position could cause the existing symptoms. Easy to see when using a strobe-type timing light

If not already done (can't recall from other posts), would spray WD40 all around the carb intake area while motor is idling, including the carb holders and vacuum nipple caps. Any outside air intrusion should suck in the WD40 and cause a noticable change in RPM and smoke out the exhaust. If spraying the WD40 has no effect, this is evidence of no outside air intrusion into the fuel mixture.

With above possibilites ruled out (advancer okay and no air leaks and pilot air screws adjusted equally at prescribed default start position), and symptoms continue, there may be a problem inside at least one of the carbs.

Random carb thoughts -- something loose in choke linkage; defective choke plunger seal; something loose in throttle slide linkage; crud preventing free throttle slide action; something bent inside; etc. Maybe even a loose pilot jet, or a throttle slide being severly out of synch.

I've undoubtedly missed some -- perhaps a lot of -- possibilities. But without disassembly and inspection, it is amost anybody's guess. That's why it's usually better to start with the easy simple stuff. :lol:

Others here will likely have more ideas and perhaps better more helpful suggestions.

Good Luck!

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/02/23 11:21

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2008/02/23 11:34

So forgive me for reaching a little here ---

As known, both throttle cables connect at the carb end to a pulley. The pulley moves back and forth operating a shaft which links to and ultimately lifts (opens) and lowers (closes) the throttle slides inside the carbs. The large strong external carb return spring pulls the throttle closed. When the throttle is allowed to "snap" closed, the "snap" being heard is the collision between the pulley (a designed flat spot on the pulley) as it impacts/collides against the tip of the throttle idle adjusting screw.

Here's a little experiment which might shed some light on the idle problem.

Back way off the throttle idle adjustment screw, so it has no effect and thereby allows the carbs to close completely. Of couse, the "idle" function must then be temporarily controlled by hand manipulating the throttle to prevent the engine from stalling out and dying. Now go for test ride. Does the "idle" still pick up as previously reported -- or does releasing the throttle now consistently result in stalling the engine? Perhaps this experiment will provide a better clue as to actual source of the problem.

I had a similar problem on my MKII years ago after installing lower than stock bars. I could adjust the push/pull cables any way possible and trust me I tried every way possible 10 times. I finally just cut the push cable and used only pull and it worked fine.

I worked on it for about 30 minutes before it started raining on me. Here is what I accomplished.
#1 Adjusted the cables a little more
#2 Sprayed silicone lube on most things that looked like they would move
#3 started it up

Didn't have any problems, ran it for a while, high revs, low revs. Messed with the choke, messed with the idle screw... No Problems I wish I knew what had happened because I'm sure that as soon as I go for a decent ride it's going ot start acting up again.
Here is something I DID notice though, if I was to just pop the throttle while it was idling it would rev up then kind of choke out. Couldn't tell if this was normal
(or due to the pods) or a sign of something.. Just something I noticed

Post edited by: Afrosemite, at: 2008/02/24 17:30