KZ1100 Jetting

Hi All.

I've not long owned a lovely KZ1100 LTD. She was imported from the USA in 1998. The bottom end is sluggish, packs a good punch in the midrange revs, and gets fluffy in the top end.

My question is, what are the correct jet sizes for the UK market. Will probably also need the correct needle size and position.

I've taken out the flappy valve bit thats supposed to help with emissions and made a blanking plate.. I'll probably take the rest of the system out one day, but may keep it there to 'fool' people into thinking it still does something.

Im used to working on classic Triumphs where problems like this are pretty easily sorted.

Thanks. Will.

Will, What model is your bike? What year? What airbox? What exhaust? Just a bit of info would make an intelligent reply a tad easier. Also, explain "fluffy"... not familiar with this term with regard to motorcycle performance.

Model, KZ1100 LTD. Thats all the info i have.
Year, 1983
Exhaust, 4 into 1
Airbox, as far as i know, standard to the Californian market with the fresh air system for the over run on the exhaust side.

Fluffy.. erm, trying to think how best to explain it. 'fluffy' usually means its running too rich.. sucking too much mixture into the combustion chambers, but it isnt making any differnce to power or speed.

I don't have the various KZ1000 and KZ1100 models listed by LTD or standard... have them by letter designator, such as KZ1100A (standard) and I am too lazy to look up your model on kawasaki.com - I doubt you will need to re-clip the jet needles as I am thinking they have only the one slot... First thing to do is to get the bike up to where it feels fluffy and pull out the choke half way. This will make the bike better or worse in terms of performance. You are essentially adding fuel as the choke on your carbs is actually an enrichment circuit. Once you know if it is lean or rich operation that is making it feel "fluffy", you can go up or down in jet size relative to what is in the bike.

this is what i would normally do, but not knowing the 4 pot motor (I keep classic British bikes mainly) I didnt know how it would react or if i'd end up damaging the motor, which is possable.

cheers for the reply.. i'll head down the 'play with it and see' route.

You can't damage the motor by pulling the choke... It just adds more gas. Let me know if it is rich or lean based on what you find...

took her out for a thraping this afternoon.. after about an hour i opened her up to the limits in every gear.. still 'fluffy' in the high rev range.. did the same thing half choke, more or less the same.. think all she needs is the carbs taking off and a good clean out.. i'll have a hunt for a carb service kit and do all the seals, gaskets and diaphrams. That should cure it.

Probably won't do any harm but prior to rebuilding, I would take off the tops and ensure that the diaphragm rubber bits are seating cleanly in the channel cast into the carb tops. If the slides are leaking air a tad from a poor seat, this will cause the "fluffy" stuff. Also, if you have WAY too much slack in your throttle cable, the throttle won't open all the way and the top can feel weak. There is an adjustment for cable tension on the right hand switch gear; the barrel shaped thing on the cable which likely is being held by a locknut. You can test the throttle opening if you are suspicious by having someone hold the throttle open (bike not running) and see if you can open the bell crank on the carb assembly (thing the cable fits into and shaped like a butterfly) farther than the cable opens the bellcrank.