Carb problem or ?

Sounds like you have either a bad spark plug wire/cap, or the compression is low on that cylinder. Swapping the plug wire with #1 cylider will elimate the plug wire problem. A compression gauge is only 20 bucks or so and can be had at any auto parts store. If the compression is too low, that cylinder will not fire at idle but will build enough compression to run at higher RPMs. A compression check will tell you if it is the rings or valves causing low compression. Z1 has a nice set of plug wires under 20 bucks. I feel your pain as I have two '82 D1s and a A2. They need a bit of tinkering every week, at least that is what I tell the wife as an excuse to spend time in the garage.......hehe...If you were in the DFW area, I might be able to take a look....chris3

UPDATE: I ran a compression test.

DRY test

1) 152

2)145

3)150

4)160

WET test raised ALL cylinders 10 lbs. This is done with a el-cheapo $20 compression gauge so the actual #'s may be off. After putting the plugs back in I swapped #1 & #4 wires at the coil. Now when I pull the wire off cylinders 1,2 &4 the bike will die but pulling #3 dosen't make a difference.As mentioned earlier, I'm sure the wires are shot. I will Order a new set from Z1 when some extra $$ rolls in next check. There is still no vaccum on #4 cylinder. Actually there is enough vaccum I can feel it with my finger but not enough to move the gauge.Yes I swapped gauges and still no reading for #4. The pipes all still vaporize water when sprayed. Could this be as simple as bad plug wires causing this or do I have a carb(s) problem? At least I'm happy I don't need to pull the head.:whistle: :woohoo:

Post edited by: 1982KZ1100D1, at: 2007/12/02 15:53

I robbed some old plug wires from a VW and tried them. The bike runs a little better and cyl.s 1,2 & 3 will now drop RPMs about 500 when the wire is pulled. #4 drops RPMs maybe 1-200. There is still no vacuum reading on #4 carb.I checked voltage with a Motorola analog VOM and I get 13.5 at battery and 15.5 at the red wires going to the coils.Both test were with the bike NOT running. I don't see how the voltage would increase at the coils.I FORGOT TO MENTION but it backfires on acceleration. Any Ideas?????

Post edited by: 1982KZ1100D1, at: 2007/12/02 17:42

Post edited by: 1982KZ1100D1, at: 2007/12/02 18:03

wiredgeorge wrote:

. . . check your compression . . . and adjust your valves. . . if valve clearances are too tight, the valves won't open enough for combustion to occur... especially when the engine warms. We have a "VALVE CLEARANCE" tech article as well that might help there.

And steell also suggested the same.

Perhaps missed, but have valve clearances yet been checked? Given the relatively low mileage, wouldn't be surprised if they had never been checked. And this should be done before any carb adjustments.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/12/02 19:24

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/12/02 19:27

I'll check that next weekend. I have the Kawasaki factory tools and 80+ shims in about a dozen different sizes I got in trade. I've never done it but it looks like it's not too hard. The compression looks like it's "in the ball park" for a 8.9 compression ratio if it's the same as cars.

If you got compression like recorded, that is not a problem and adjusting the valves won't do much for you... sorry, I was pretty sure that would be the issue.

I can't recall what all has been done with the ignition but if you have no vacuum in #4, let's look at the ignition just a bit. Swap 1 and 4 plug wires and see if the problem moves.

1982KZ1100D1 wrote:

... no vacuum reading on #4 carb... backfires on acceleration

Would concur that good compression figures indicate valves are properly sealing, at least before the engine reaches normal operating temprerature.
Sometimes compression readings may look okay, but drop quickly after a short run. May be caused by insufficient valve clearance (gap). As engine warms, valve clearance reduces. And may reduce to the point where the valves are unable to completely close. Then it becomes a "leaking" valve (which drops compression).

So even where compression testing figures read okay, proper valve clearances are also necessary to maintain the compression at normal operating temperature. Note the periodic maintenance chart calls for checking valve clearances every 8000 km (or 5000 miles).

Even a perfect ignition with perfect carbs won't compensate for inadequate compression due to a leaking valve at operating temperature (regardless of cold compression figures).

Would pay particular attention to #4 intake valve, as this might possibly explain lack of vacuum on #4 and/or backfiring through leaking intake valve back into the carb.

The valve clearances may check out just fine -- hope they do -- and be thereby eliminated from the list of suspects. Besides, it's easy and will keep Ma Kaw happy.

Just my thoughts in looking forward to a beautiful bike running as good as it looks.

Patton... You are probably right... no point by-passing must-do maintenance... just took compression/valves down a few notches on the list of potential reasons he has a non-firing cylinder. If I had the bike on-hand, this wouldn't take long to figure out. Sounds like the bike is getting pretty close to being OK to ride.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Patton... You are probably right... no point by-passing must-do maintenance... Sounds like the bike is getting pretty close to being OK to ride.

Yes checking the valves is a "Must do" before it hits the road. I also think it's getting closer to a fix because of everyones help here. Even if it means pulling the carbs again it's better than having to replace rings or valves. I'll post what I find next weekend after checking the valves. I think my feeler gauge only goes down to .003 or .004in. but I would like to get them to the higher side anyway.

While you can use an SAE feeler gauge, I find it a lot more comfortable working in metric since that is what the shims are are sized in. Go to Sears and get a metric feel gauge. They go down to .051mm

Replaced plug wires,checked voltage to coils, checked coils with a ohm meter then checked valve clearence. All checked OK. I was happy to see how clean the inside of the engine was. Almost like new!

Since everything else checked OK, I pulled the carbs again and this time I'm going to send them to George to get them done right. If the weather is OK the next few days,I'll try and swap the handlebars and go over the wiring to make sure all connections are clean,tight and as they should be. Looks like the ol' thing might be on the road soon.

I sent the carbs to WiredGeorge and they were in pretty bad shape. He worked them over,shipped back and I should have them some time next week.I'm really looking forward to getting this bike on the road. Thank you George for the quick turn around. :woohoo: :woohoo: