over-rev and electrical

first.. i put a new timing chain in my motor.. as well as new rings and new gaskets.. WHEW!!!!

I've never had this motor running so i dont really know the ins and outs of it.. my last carby bike was a 99 YZF R6 so i have a little bit of experience with tuning them..

anyhow.. bike started on the first turn.. idles resonably smooth..

sometimes the motor will idle smooth sometimes it will gain RPM and then just start to surge all on its own to 6 or 7000RPM... without the throttle being opened... if i shut the bike down it will either climb again or idle fine for a time..

When i had the carbs off i took them all apart and that included the air mix screws.. everything was blown out and i set the screws to 2.5 turns out but not sure where they should be at all (they were all at different settings prior)...

i also increased the pilot and main jet sizes as per wiredgeorge.. anything i should look for?

also.. is there a switched 12v wire in the harness somewhere... i am wiring a tach from a honda, and i've gotten it to work but want to wire it permanently with a 12v switched supply but my clymer manual sucks... anyone have ideas?

I took apert my ignition and sodered another wire on it for switched ignition and then went to terminal supply to get the pin for the push connector now I have an extra for switch power off the ignition and it looks stock too.
As for the running when I have the chocks half way the rpms will climb so I would check the choke system for leaks and the sync on the carbs.

What bike are you talking about in this post? Edit your signature and put the bike year/model in your signature and it wouldn't hurt to put your location...

:side: sorry folks.. this is for my 84 gpz750.. and not my 2007 zx6... just so its clear

i sprayed down the carbies and boots a bit while it idled with WD40 and did not see any smoke or hear any change in the idling.. its possible there are no leaks there.. the boots are new and pretty tight.. sometimes there is a burp from one of the pipes but maybe that is another issue.

i can get the idle low around 1000-1200rpm it will sit there fine for minutes on end.. as soon as i touch the throttle and slightly blip it over 15-1700rpm it races up to like 4-5000rpm and kinda sits there...

this isnt a road bike so i cant really take it out onto the street

Sounds like you are making some progress. Let's fix the high idle problem. There is really no other place that can lean besides the carb holders that will make the idle shoot up over 5K rpm. It WILL shoot up and be erratic if you have not plugged one of the vacuum ports but probably won't be quite that high. Check the vacuum ports to ensure they are capped. Use 7/32" vacuum caps.

If the vacuum caps are in place, then check to see if the issue is mechanical. Look carefully at the carb holder brackets that clamp the carbs. If you have long phillips head screws, one may be catching on a sync adjust mechanism since they are very close.

If you have decent clearance and the carb sync adjusts are not rubbing the carb holder bracket screws, then make sure all four choke plungers are closing. There is a 4mm circlip that holds the little bracket that grabs the plunger end and if it is missing, that plunger may not close and you may be running with the plunger out. Check all four to ensure they are closing all the way.

If the choke plungers are closed when the knob is in, remove the cable end from the cup that holds it at the front of the carb assembly and start the bike. See if the bike idle speed changes or hangs as before. If it behaves better and doesn't wander, your cable is too tight or is binding or the throttle is binding. Did you grease the handlebar under the throttle sleeve?

If the cable isn't the issue, did you remove the mixture screws? Did you replace the orings on the mixture screws?

If none of these things is the issue, the throttle butterflies are probably hanging/binding. This will require an examination of the carb assembly to see why this is. I have seen cases where the butterflies have been removed and the edges distorted/banged up and don't allow the butterfly to pivot freely. If you get this far and feel this might be the case, all you have to do is remove the assembly and look at the butterflies while you work the bellcrank and see if they shut all the way with the idle screw backed out.

ill check that later tonight, thanks george.. by the way - i have 2 vacuum ports pluged, and ports from 2 and 4 going to a T and then to the tank valve.. is that ok?

Normally 1 and 4 go to a tee that connects to the vacuum valve that works your reed valves. If there is anything open in the smog system... well, you will get the high idle. Try putting plugs on all of them to see if the idle settles down in addition to the other things I babbled about. If it does, get rid of the smog stuff. Heck, get rid of the smog stuff anyhow. Just a bunch of hoses and junk under your tank making working on the bike that much more of a pain.

theres no smog stuff on the bike at all.. the only thing i need a vacuum for is for the fuel valve

You have two vacuum ports teed and then connected to the petcock? That should be OK... not necessary to have two but don't do any harm I guess... other ports should be capped.

all others capped.. i will reduce to one.. any logic to set the mix screws (top)?

1.5 turns out from lightly seated seems to work OK... they are not fussy.