Do I have a needle clip adjustment

OLD PIC

I have a weak spot between 6,000 and 8,000 rpm and I hear that I need to adjust the position of the clip for the main jet. Well I have had these carbs apart more then I can remember and I did not see any adjustment. My carb info and bike info.


This pic is of my Carbs. I have cleaned them. I have put new jets 110 main, 15 pilots, air bleed screw out 1 3/4 turns, floats are set to the top of fuel bowl on each carb, and they are synced using a drill bit.
The bike runs realy good, idles smooth, does not boug if I were to snap the throttle open. Instantaineous throttle responce. I have emgo pods(could not aford k+n). My compression is 1=155, 2=154, 3=154, 4=155. My spark plugs have a a ring of light black on the outside electrode and it is white around the center electrode. I ohmed my spark plugs and got them all 1.1 resistance out of a pack of 20 at the parts store, the others read anywere from 4.0-25.8 resistance. They are gaped by using feeler gauges at .035. B7ES plugs. dyna green coils, stock electronic ignition, newly lubed advancer. getting 13.5 volts to coils. at idle. hope I didnt leave out anything:blink:
I run my bike easy and every once and a while I'll take the engine till it doesnt pull anymore:ohmy: . It has great power like I said but for a couple of thousand rpm it will be like I let off the throttle a little and got back on.

"I have put new jets 110 main, 15 pilots,"

Jetting, since you are using UNI pod filters, should be #110 mains, jet needle clipped to 4th slot and #17.5 pilot jets


"air bleed screw out 1 3/4 turns"

Adjust air mixture screws (air bleed screws?) for max rpm at idle and turn idle down between every adjustment


"floats are set to the top of fuel bowl on each carb"

Carbs will run rich and overflow easily. Adjust using SERVICE FUEL LEVEL method (plastic hose) to 1/8" below gasket mating surface not to top of float bowl



"and they are synced using a drill bit."

Not a good idea... the point of bench sync is to get the slides to open and shut in the middle of the range of operation of the idle mixture screw and that CAN NOT be done with a drill bit. Read your shop manual OR look at the zillion old posts I have placed on this board with the correct bench sync technique.

On top of those things, I would check valve clearances, if you haven't done so and would be curious to know how you are measuring 13.5 VDC at the coils unless you reg/rec is going bad... is that at idle?

Battery is at 14.2 volts at idle. Coils are anywere from 13-13.5 at idle. I checked it use a DVOM.

I have tried using the 17.5 pilots but got a lot of black smoke at idle so I took them back out and put the 15 back in. The air screws were backed out 1.5 turns when I had the 17.5 in.

As for the clip I didn't see an ajustment nor did I see how to remove the needle:dry: Do you have a pic or diagram of my carb?

If you don't know how to remove the slides, keep in mind the carbs will need to be resync'd afterwards. See buykawasaki.com - owner info - parts diagrams for a look at your carbs.

As far as your battery voltage at idle, it is too high and your regulator/rectifier is probably bad. Check it at 4K rpm and you may find that you are in danger of boiling your battery. You should have 12.5 VDC at idle and 14.5 VDC at 4K rpm.