Carb Jetting

Help!!!
I have a 79 LTD 1000 with dyna ign,Vance and Hines exhaust and individual air filters. I believe the carbs are 26mm VM's B3 with accelerator pump. I bought a jet kit which is suppose to be for this bike but the jets are 140 with alternate jet at 138.I tried both, bike would bog in mid range and carbon up the plugs as if getting too much gas.Lower the needles then I lose my vacuum. I have tried jets at 105,107.5 and 110 and just can't get it to run right. What should be the right range to use? I have increased the pilot jet to 20 from 15 idles seems fine, it's anything after I crack the throttle under load thats the problem.
Also, how can I check if the accelerator pump is operating at the correct time.
Any advice??

79 LTD 1000
01 ZRX1200
85 Magna 700
91 katana 600

Take the pods off to check the pump. It probably isn't working; most are not. The bike doesn't need to be running as the pump actuates mechanically via the two diaphragms on the #2 carb. Pull up a few times on the pump lever or twist the throttle. If you see gas coming out all four brass squirt gizmos in the intake venturi of the carbs, the pump mechanism is working OK. If it comes out none of them, the internal passageways inside the float bowl on #2 are clogged. These can be a bit tricky to clear. If you get a squirt of gas out of some of the brass doo-hickys sitting in the intake venturi of the carbs but not others, more than likely the little hole is clogged. Those holes are tiny so gas will atomize. It is tricky to clear those holes as well.

Comment 2. The 26 pumpers are hard to tune and fussy. I would consider getting a set of non-pump VM series carbs; either VM26 or VM28 as they will be a lot more friendly as far as tuning goes. The Dynajet kit you used is especially unfriendly with this carb as the jet needle is poorly matched with the needle jet. Put the stock jet needles back in. See if the pump is working (it makes a difference in tuning, of course). If it isn't working, stay with the #20 pilots, stock jet needles and about a #110 main. The 26 pumpers will still have flat spot troubles as I am convinced their internals were poorly sorted out and matched up but the jetting I noted should work OK... if you have the pump working, it gets far trickier to rejet; especially for the pilot circuit which affects your off idle transition where you are having problems.

WiredGeorge,
Thank you for the advise. I checked the accelerator pump as you suggested. It is working in all 4 carbs. Changed main jet to a 110 and moved clip on needle to 3rd position. Tried to sync carb's 1-3 at roughly 10 inches of vacuum but 4 is at 15 inches and i can't seem to bring it down. At first I thought that it may be the gauges so I switched 3&4 and had high vacuum on gauge 3 which was now carb 4. If I try to adjust 4 by raising the slider, turning in the screw the vacuum goes higher. I would of thought that it would lower.It's measuring the amount of vacuum being pulled through the carb right? so, is it possible for it to be clogged??

You are correct; highest vacuum readings should be when slide is closed the most. As you raise the slide, the vacuum should go down. Can't say what is wrong since this shouldn't be happening. If I had the carburetors, I would consider changing the slide actuator on the carb that is giving you the messy readings. What type of manometer is being used? Is there any adjustment?

wiredgeorge wrote:

Take the pods off to check the pump. It probably isn't working; most are not. The bike doesn't need to be running as the pump actuates mechanically via the two diaphragms on the #2 carb. Pull up a few times on the pump lever or twist the throttle. If you see gas coming out all four brass squirt gizmos in the intake venturi of the carbs, the pump mechanism is working OK..

WG...many thanks for your posts. i've got a mild stumble under acceleration, and checked out my accelerator pump like you suggested. turns out it's working fine.....but at least i've eliminated one possibility from the list! thanks again for all your help around here!

I'VE GOT THE GAUGES AND YES THERE IS A ADJUSTMENT AND ALL THE GAUGES ARE AT ZERO. I DID TRY TO SWAP SLIDERS 3 FOR 4 AND 4 FOR 3 BUT THAT JUST MADE IT WORST AND THEN 3 AND 4 WERE AT 15 INCHES VACUUM SO i SWAPPED THEM BACK. THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY. THERE IS NO RYTHM OR REASON FOR THIS. I GUESS THAT I'LL PULL THE CARBS OFF AGAIN AND CHECK THE BOOT CARB TO CYLINDER TO SEE IF THAT IS PLUGGED.
ANY IDEAS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.I'VE HAD THIS BIKE FOR 20 YEARS THERES GOT TO BE SOMETHING THAT I'M MISSING. GEORGE YOU MENTIONED CHANGING THE SLIDER ACTUATOR, THAT IS THE PART THAT HOOKS THE SLIDER TO THE ACTUATING ROD RIGHT????

I think I've got it. I reassembled the carbs and remembered in one of my manuals it stated to set slide height to use a piece of wire .7 mm thick, adjust until wire just falls out. I did this on all four and it worked. Vacuum on all four sitting at 11 inches. Thank you for all your help and advise.

P.S.
I hope that no one took offense to my last posting being in caps. Don't know if I broke any internet rules? Was typing on a laptop and it kept going into caps. I ment nothing bad by it.

Again, Thank you all for your advise.

I read through the rules and now know that cap words are bad. I apologize for my use of them. Ment nothing by it.