fuel coming out of Exaust

I have a 82 kawi GPZ 750 and i have fuel that comes out of the 2nd cylinders exaust, the spark plug is is wet when i pulled it out. but it does have spark. i cleaned the carb and put it back on the bike with out adjusting anything. If i got a needle and seat kit could it fix it or would i just be wasting my money? when it could be something more simple. Does anybody know what i should do?

Is your exhaust pipe hot? If the pipe is not hot, then it is not firing. If it's not firing, it going to build up gas and push it into the exhaust pipe. Like mine is doing right now.

I would check the condition of the needle and seat and the float level in the carb first. Simple and it's free.
Ride Safe.

Post edited by: The Milkman, at: 2007/05/30 18:33

If brand new plug installed in #2, does the cylinder fire and run for at least a few moments, and if so, for how long before the plug presumedly soots up and fouls out?

Have had very little success with bringing even relatively new NGK plugs back to life after fuel fouling them. Always having to start over testing again with new plugs.

Should assure air intake (pod filter?) is not clogged or obstructed, and that choke is completely closing on #2 carb.

Check that pilot mixture screw is properly adjusted
on #2 carb and not too rich -- is it set about same as on other carbs?

Follow milkman's suggestion about service fuel level and assure some semblance of proper float needle seating. Does fuel drizzle from float bowl overflow nipples while parked with engine off and petcock turned on prime or just on if no prime position? Drizzle indicates some leaking at float needle/seat juncture. Steady stream of fuel pouring from overflow nipple indicates more serious failure of float needle seating.

Finally, clean clean clean the pilot circuit -- pilot jet, air jet (if applicable), air passage, and passage. Use wire if necessary and spray carb cleaner (wear goggles) throughout pilot circuit. Replace pilot jet if holes are disfigured.

The spark plug may be fuel fouling out before ever getting off the pilot circuit. And extended warm-up with choke on can also fuel foul a plug. So with the new plug, use just as little choke as possible to get cranked and close it quickly as possible.

Good Luck with #2.

i will try changing the plugs, and see if that does something. How do i know if the pilot mixture screw is adjusted properly? because they all have to be sinked together properly but i have never done that. my book told me to count the turns when i took the carbs apart and i did and then backed it out the same number of turn puting it back together, so as far as i know they would be right unless the person who owned it before me messed with them. but thanks guys i will try this and keep you informed,

i wouldn't blindly trust that the mixture screws are right. there are a lot of posts around here (and your manual might include a step by step) about getting them all tuned correctly.

i think wiredgeorge has said to back them out 1.5 turns and then play with them to get the max idle. search around though. can't hurt to make sure they're dead on and probably should be done sooner or later anyway.

The carb ain't your problem. It won't do any good to muck with the carb. The carb may not be adjusted right but it IS supplying gas to the combustion chamber as that is how it is getting into the exhaust pipes. The gas AIN'T BURNED! This means there is no combustion. It is either a SPARK problem or a COMPRESSION problem. You can do LOTS OF STUFF but I suggest you first eliminate the spark as the issue. I know you said you saw spark but swap the #2 and #3 plug wires. If the problem remains on the #2 cylinder, let's fix the compression problem. If the problem MOVES, then your problem is in the plug wire or cap; simple as that... possibly the connection of the spark plug wire in the coil.

OK... say the problem stays on #2... Check your valve clearances and if they are OK, it is time to do a leak down compression test or regular compression test followed by a test with some oil. If you get this far, ask me how to do this. There is a possibility that the float is sticking on the #2 carb. To check, with the bike on centerstand and turned off, remove that float bowl. Lift the float with your finger and see if the float needle moves up and then drops easily when you let go of the float. There is also a possibility that there is CRUD between the needle and seat. This happens if an owner neglects to use the small screens on the underside of the seat. You can figure out pretty quickly if the float is working and the cylinder isn't firing by spraying some water on the #2 exhaust pipe when the bike is running. If the water runs down the pipe and doesn't vaporize, the pipe is relatively cold and not firing and the float is likely working; just that the mixture isn't burning and then comes out the pipe.