broken part in carbs

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22 May 2007 11:11 #142450 by jcote75
broken part in carbs was created by jcote75
Hi,

I've open my carb's this week end for a cleany up and saw a borken part.

It is one of the support that hold the floater.

I'll try to make this clear enough.

The floater is on a small rod that is hold by two support on which is swivel.

It is one of the support that is broken on the basis.

Is it possible to weld this? Is it possible to glue it?

Tks for your help,
Joce

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22 May 2007 11:32 - 03 Dec 2008 10:53 #142457 by JMKZHI
Replied by JMKZHI on topic .
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Last edit: 03 Dec 2008 10:53 by JMKZHI.

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22 May 2007 12:43 #142481 by Duck
Replied by Duck on topic broken part in carbs
Broken float pin boss.
Epoxy should hold it.

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22 May 2007 12:43 #142482 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic broken part in carbs
Let me guess... would this be a BS34? Bwhahahaha Make sure you smooth the float pin before trying to reinstall on the repaired post... JB Weld it.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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22 May 2007 12:49 #142485 by jcote75
Replied by jcote75 on topic broken part in carbs
Thanks for the advise.

This is for a Z1100R. Sorry but don't know what is a BS34 so can't laugh with you.

:silly:

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22 May 2007 15:40 - 03 Dec 2008 10:54 #142536 by JMKZHI
Replied by JMKZHI on topic .
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Last edit: 03 Dec 2008 10:54 by JMKZHI.

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22 May 2007 19:43 #142616 by wiredgeorge
Replied by wiredgeorge on topic broken part in carbs
Sorry... I guess I see so darn many broken posts on BS34s it is funny to me. The reason is that the float pin fits sooooo tightly in the holes in the post that folks will get it tapped out just a tad and then put a set of vise grips on the end and tug it out. The vise grips distort the already tight end just a tad and the next time you try to put the pin back in or remove it, it will stick... Then when you try to punch it out the pin will just snap off cleanly. One of my competitors charges over $100 to do "post repair"... it is simply a matter of cleaning the mating surfaces with a Dremel/wire brush attatchment a bit and mixing some JB Weld. Just don't try and clean the JB Weld off too much... it must cover the crack on the outside to be strong and (you have already cleaned up the end of the pin with a file), stick the pin in through both holes while it dries to ensure the holes line up... Once dry, take a drill bit that is only just a shade larger than the holes and drill through both of them before reinserting the pin... with a clean edge on the pin and the hole cleaned out, the pin will fit a tad loose but the shape of the float bowl cover will ensure it can't come out. I have fixed about a dozen of those darn pins in the past week... sorry for the "belly laugh"... I guess I was the only one amused but I get this vision of BS34 owners with a hammer and vise grips getting those sticky pins loose. Oh yeah, I use a special dental pick to remove the pins. The pick is pretty stout for a dental pin and I cut off a bit of the sharp tip. The other end was cut so I can use the pick as a punch. You have to tap firmly and confidently without getting too much pick in the hole where it wedges. Once the pin is moved a bit, you can stick a nail (brad really) in the hole and tap that with a punch to move the pin. In the event the pin doesn't budge because of previous abuse to the end, you can drill the pin out (cobalt bit best) and use another pin... they will break sometimes, no matter how careful you are.

wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!

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