pod filters and rejetting

just rebuilt the carbs on my 77 kz650. the stock air box disintegrated. the plastic was so old and brittle. anyway i was going to get a set of pods from e-bay. do i need to rejet my carbs or can i leave them with the stock jets.

Start by going up 3 mains and 1 pilot. That should be a good place to start. 110 main and 17.5 pilot.
assuming you have 102.5's, 15
up 2 jets for headers, up 2 for pods, -1 = 3
up 1 pilot for every 3 mains = 1

Follow this rule..
www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Jetting_Rules_of_Thumb_W43C551.cfm

Post edited by: vach, at: 2007/05/13 04:41

You'll need to rejet.

A quote from Jeff Saunders: From this thread

There are certainly pros and cons going with pods.

1) the air quality around the pods is subjected to variation with different speed and weather conditions. The turbulence makes it tough to tune pods for all speeds. If it's raining, the outer two pods will often get wet quickly and this causes 1 & 4 to run rich. In extreme rain, the bike will cut out and die - purely due to water saturating the pods and not allowing enough air into the carbs.

2) rejetting - you will usually have to rejet - as a general rule - 1 size on main jet - sometimes one size on pilot jet and occasionally raising the needle 1 notch.

3) unless you support the carbs, the carb holders will crack far faster than when the carbs are supported - something as simple as a zip-tie to the frame can make sure the weight of the carbs is supported.

4) it is far easier to get carbs on and off the bike with pod filters. (although new airbox hoses make things MUCH easier)

5) some of the pod filters can block air jet ports on the airbox side of the carb - the larger 52mm & 54mm Emgo pod filters have a rubber flange that CAN partially obscure one of the ports on certain CV carbs - often requiring some crafting with a blade to remove excess rubber.


There are certainly pros and cons going with pods.

1) the air quality around the pods is subjected to variation with different speed and weather conditions. The turbulence makes it tough to tune pods for all speeds. If it's raining, the outer two pods will often get wet quickly and this causes 1 & 4 to run rich. In extreme rain, the bike will cut out and die - purely due to water saturating the pods and not allowing enough air into the carbs.

2) rejetting - you will usually have to rejet - as a general rule - 1 size on main jet - sometimes one size on pilot jet and occasionally raising the needle 1 notch.

3) unless you support the carbs, the carb holders will crack far faster than when the carbs are supported - something as simple as a zip-tie to the frame can make sure the weight of the carbs is supported.

4) it is far easier to get carbs on and off the bike with pod filters. (although new airbox hoses make things MUCH easier)

5) some of the pod filters can block air jet ports on the airbox side of the carb - the larger 52mm & 54mm Emgo pod filters have a rubber flange that CAN partially obscure one of the ports on certain CV carbs - often requiring some crafting with a blade to remove excess rubber.

Post edited by: rstnick, at: 2007/05/12 23:11