750 Jet settings
- fenlon
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750 Jet settings
11 May 2007 14:12
I have a stock 83 750 k1 ltd twin belt drive.
I am planning on cleaning the carb today, but have been unable to find the jet settings. Any help would be appreciated.
I am planning on cleaning the carb today, but have been unable to find the jet settings. Any help would be appreciated.
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- ronjones
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Re: 750 Jet settings
11 May 2007 14:50
fenlon wrote:
Hey bud, we're relatively local, just up 95. Welcome, someone is gonna tell ya to post some pics so I might as well do it now.
According to my FSM stock jets, for the Mikuni BS34, are:
Main-115, needle jet-Z-0*, jet needle-5C50 (one grove), pilot jet-45, pilot air jet-1.6*, throttle valve-165*, starter jet-70*, pilot screw-2.25. It looks like the K1 has the same stock settings as my M1.
*I don't think these can be replaced
Good luck
Ron
I have a stock 83 750 k1 ltd twin belt drive.
I am planning on cleaning the carb today, but have been unable to find the jet settings. Any help would be appreciated.
Hey bud, we're relatively local, just up 95. Welcome, someone is gonna tell ya to post some pics so I might as well do it now.
According to my FSM stock jets, for the Mikuni BS34, are:
Main-115, needle jet-Z-0*, jet needle-5C50 (one grove), pilot jet-45, pilot air jet-1.6*, throttle valve-165*, starter jet-70*, pilot screw-2.25. It looks like the K1 has the same stock settings as my M1.
*I don't think these can be replaced
Good luck
Ron
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
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- fenlon
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Re: 750 Jet settings
12 May 2007 18:40
Ron,
Thanks for all the info. I will try to get a picture of the carb tomorrow.
Just to show how terribly new at this I am, nhe numbers associated with each are degrees from totally screwed in and then backing out?
And that not about not able to replace, I assume that is a word of warning.
I didn't do a full clean yet. Just took out the bottom covers and scraped out the gunk. After that, I was able to get the bike to turn over after a short spray of carb cleaner directly to the intake. I am guessing this means a problem with the fuel supply as it cuts off after a few seconds. I checked the petcock and I believe it is working. I was able to drain all the old gas from it.
Thanks for all the info. I will try to get a picture of the carb tomorrow.
Just to show how terribly new at this I am, nhe numbers associated with each are degrees from totally screwed in and then backing out?
And that not about not able to replace, I assume that is a word of warning.
I didn't do a full clean yet. Just took out the bottom covers and scraped out the gunk. After that, I was able to get the bike to turn over after a short spray of carb cleaner directly to the intake. I am guessing this means a problem with the fuel supply as it cuts off after a few seconds. I checked the petcock and I believe it is working. I was able to drain all the old gas from it.
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- ronjones
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Re: 750 Jet settings
12 May 2007 21:00
fenlon wrote:
I think you misunderstood me, fenlon. I used the asterisk's to indicate the parts I didn't think could be replaced. The pilot and main jets as well as the jet needle can all be replaced w/like or "improved" parts. Although you can clean the jets I replaced mine when I rebuit them, because I wanted to make sure they were correct since I couldn't read the sizes. I've also done some upgrades which necessitated bigger jets. The numbers for the main and pilot jet sizes are the size of the jet hole. The bigger the #, the bigger the size, the more gas that is delivered. The pilot screw # is the number of full revolutions you back out the screw from lightly seated. If you were pulling "gunk" out of the bowl you're really gonna need to do a complete teardown and cleaning making sure you have cleared every passage. You were probably just running on the quick start but that's incouraging because it shows you're getting good fire. Get a manual, you're really gonna need it. They show up on ebay $20-60.
I also didn't mean to post pics of the carbs, although feel free if you want to, I ment that many of the members here are not let out very much and what seems to keep them amused are pics of everyone elses bikes.:woohoo: I'm surprised our resident twin guru, Steell, hasn't chimed in yet. Most of the guys here seem to run the quads but there are a quite few twin fans also. You might want to mention you have a twin in your topic lines, might draw more interest to the right people.
Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2007/05/13 02:07
Ron,
Thanks for all the info. I will try to get a picture of the carb tomorrow.
Just to show how terribly new at this I am, nhe numbers associated with each are degrees from totally screwed in and then backing out?
And that not about not able to replace, I assume that is a word of warning.
I didn't do a full clean yet. Just took out the bottom covers and scraped out the gunk. After that, I was able to get the bike to turn over after a short spray of carb cleaner directly to the intake. I am guessing this means a problem with the fuel supply as it cuts off after a few seconds. I checked the petcock and I believe it is working. I was able to drain all the old gas from it.
I think you misunderstood me, fenlon. I used the asterisk's to indicate the parts I didn't think could be replaced. The pilot and main jets as well as the jet needle can all be replaced w/like or "improved" parts. Although you can clean the jets I replaced mine when I rebuit them, because I wanted to make sure they were correct since I couldn't read the sizes. I've also done some upgrades which necessitated bigger jets. The numbers for the main and pilot jet sizes are the size of the jet hole. The bigger the #, the bigger the size, the more gas that is delivered. The pilot screw # is the number of full revolutions you back out the screw from lightly seated. If you were pulling "gunk" out of the bowl you're really gonna need to do a complete teardown and cleaning making sure you have cleared every passage. You were probably just running on the quick start but that's incouraging because it shows you're getting good fire. Get a manual, you're really gonna need it. They show up on ebay $20-60.
I also didn't mean to post pics of the carbs, although feel free if you want to, I ment that many of the members here are not let out very much and what seems to keep them amused are pics of everyone elses bikes.:woohoo: I'm surprised our resident twin guru, Steell, hasn't chimed in yet. Most of the guys here seem to run the quads but there are a quite few twin fans also. You might want to mention you have a twin in your topic lines, might draw more interest to the right people.
Post edited by: ronjones, at: 2007/05/13 02:07
'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.