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What's the deal?
- whatever
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I tried searching for this problem, but I couldn't find anything on it. My engine will randomly hold the rpms that it's at when I go to shift, and usually it won't come down until I put a load on it. It seems like it could be the throttle cable, but I checked that, and it's definately not sticking. Is it a vacuum leak? Has anyone else had this? By the way, I posted a while back about building my own wiring harness, and I finally got around to doing it, finished it a couple of weeks ago, and everything works great. Thanks for the help!
Jon
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- Frank
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- whatever
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- JUSTICE114
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By the way, I posted a while back about building my own wiring harness, and I finally got around to doing it, finished it a couple of weeks ago, and everything works great. Thanks for the help!
Jon
Think you could bring your self to build another harness for a 77 Kz1000??? :whistle: Sure could use one..... PM me with a price to do so. Sorry for hijackin the thread. :pinch:
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- Frank
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- freebyrd24
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my favorite answer. spray wd-40 around the carbs, particularily on the rubber hoses between the carbs and the motor. if it increases the idle wen you spray it, then you have a leak.
what i did was buy the intake boots from z1enterprises and it fixed the problem right up. just somethin to check for
- 1981 KZ1000-K1 LTD - Long term project
1075cc Kit - New Wiseco Pistons
Sold:
- 1978 kz650 SR, 4-1 Vance and Hines Full Exhaust, Dyna-S Ignition, Accel Coils and Wires
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- whatever
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- wiredgeorge
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wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- kzwolfsr
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1979 KZ SR650, stock candy persimmon red and crossover pipes
1981 KZ 1000LTD with non stock and more comfortable handle bars and 4 into one V&H
Original man of the Caribbean
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- Norseman
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The list you graciously typed up a couple of days ago was for me (Viking10), and it was much appreciated. I am taking the liberty to copy your advice in this post; I hope you don't mind.
"You have an air leak in the pilot circuit as you have already guessed. Replace the carb holders... there is not point in messing with old rubber bits. They are replacement items.
Next, you may have leaks elsewhere. Here is my favorite list of things to replace...
1. Remove pilot mixture screws. Replace o-ring on those screws and set them 1.5 to 2 turns out. Will discuss setting in a second.
2. Check vacuum hose off #3 carb all the way to the petcock, inspecting for any holes. Replace, if necessary.
3. Check the vacuum cap on #2 carb for any sign of leaking; replace if necessary.
4. On a stock bike, you should have a hose coming off the vacuum fitting on #1 carb and #4 carb. These go to a tee fitting. The tee fitting has a vacuum hose coming off and going to a canister. This is a vacuum switch that opens your reed valves. Check these hoses for leaks. If this junk is no longer on the bike, make sure #1 and #4 are capped with new vacuum caps... use 7/32" for your vacuum caps.
5. Replace carb holders as noted already. When in doubt, throw the old ones out!
6. Next time idle hangs up; jiggle the choke rod knob in and out a tad. If the idle immediately settles, the choke plunger pads are hardened and not seating.
7. Adjust throttle cable so there is visible slack between the cup that hold the end of the cable sheath to where the very end inserts into the bell crank.
8. Exhaust gaskets leaking... if you had the system off, the gaskets that sit between the pipe flanges and cylinder head are crush type. THEY MUST NOT BE REUSED otherwise air will leak into the combustion chamber.
9. Bad gasket /seal on the reed valves (these are atop the valve cover... there are two with big hoses coming out).
One or some of these things will fix the idle issues. Make sure the sync mechanisms are not hanging up any on one of the carb holder screw ends or the holder itself isn't turned and catching the sync mechanism when you rotate the throttle.
Norseman
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