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Idles only on full choke 11 Mar 2007 10:07 #119224

  • stpauler
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Hi all.

Background: I bought an '83 KZ550-M1 (shaft) last fall. When purchased, it was only running on 3 cylinders, but I'm fairly certain it idled fine off choke. Over the winter, I cleaned (but did not rebuild - nothing was replaced) the carbs and replaced the air filter. Completely disassembled them, took out all the bits and used carb cleaner and air.

Just now put everything back together. Bike starts and runs (all four cylinders) fine on full choke. Idles at around 3000 when cold, and settles down to 2000 after warm. As soon as choke is pushed in (half or no choke), the engine kills. I am able to turn the choke off when half throttle and keep the bike running if I rev it. I haven't tried it on the road yet. My carb boots (and airbox "boots") are hard, but looked to be OK. I sprayed carb cleaner on the carb boots, to no affect on the rpm's.

So, my question is this - is this likely a clogged pilot jet? If so, am I silly to think I can get away without a complete rebuild (all 4 carbs)?

Also, some newbie questions - What is the proper nomenclature for an inline 4, as far as what carb is numbered what? Is left to right (from left side of bike) 1 to 4, or vice versa? Also, is it common for the "outside" cylinders (1 & 4 I presume) to run a little hotter than the inside two, as judged by the temperature of the headers?

Thanks for any thoughts or suggestions.
-Andy

Edited to add: The bike now seems to settle in at an rpm of more like 3800 with full choke. Not sure why it seemed to find a home at 2K for a little bit.

Post edited by: stpauler, at: 2007/03/11 14:06

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Idles only on full choke 11 Mar 2007 11:27 #119235

  • kano
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mine did this.
strip the carbs down compleatly and clean them
especially pay attention to idle and main jets.
this will solve your idle problems.

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Idles only on full choke 11 Mar 2007 19:56 #119340

  • baldy110
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Idle jets are clogged. Clean them again

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Idles only on full choke 11 Mar 2007 21:10 #119379

  • kzwolfsr
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The outer cylinders may be hotter because those 2 carb circuits are possibly lean, make an air fuel adjustment to richen them up
1979 KZ SR650, stock candy persimmon red and crossover pipes
1981 KZ 1000LTD with non stock and more comfortable handle bars and 4 into one V&H
Original man of the Caribbean

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Idles only on full choke 12 Mar 2007 22:14 #119693

  • stpauler
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Well guys, thanks for the suggestions, but I misinformed you. Upon further inspection, #3 is not firing as confirmed by H20 spray test on headers. Pulled plugs, and #3 is good and wet. For now, I'm off to the following, courtesy of wiredgeorge in a prior post to someone else (thanks!). Sorry for the misinformation - I'll likely be back to post the solution or for further suggestions. Thanks.

1. Compression check with gauge on all cylinders - Low compress WILL cause a cylinder to not fire. The MOST repeat MOST common reason for lack of compression is that a valve (or valves) have NO clearance and are partially open - this leads to FOULED plugs which will also cause the cylinder to non-fire

if compression checks OK then step 2

2. Electrical issue. If ONE cylinder is not firing, this imples the coil is OK but either the plug, plug wire, connection to the coil or the plug cap are at fault. FIRST - The coils fire in pairs. If #3 isn't firing, swap the #2 and #3 plug wires. If the problem remains on #3, then REPLACE or SWAP the spark plug. A bad plug DOES happen. If the problem moves, then check the seat of the plug wire in the coil. Remove the wire, cut off perhaps a 1/4" and reseat it. If that doesn't fix the problem, replace the wire and cap.

If this doesn't fix the problem, go to next step:

Step 3 is carburetors. Put in a clean set of spark plugs as the plug for the non-firing cylinder is likely fouled from the non-combustion. Start the engine and then rev it to perhaps 4K rpm. If the bike doesn't idle but "cuts in" when rpms rise, the pilot circuit has blockage in either an air path or fuel path. Clean the internal passageways completely and retry to see if the cylinder has combustion (water test on pipe) at idle. If it doesn't you might need professional carb help since whatever was doesn't didn't work. If the bike doesn't "cut in" when you rev the engine, reset the float level using the Service Fuel Level method (set the float level WET). There is little liklihood that the #3 cylinder fuel pipe is obstructed if #4 is getting gas. If the problem occurs on an OUTSIDE cylinder, there is the possiblity that the fuel pipe itself is plugged or obstructed. Another thing to check is that vent ports are free and unobstructed and that the carbs are drawing gas easily as there is no vacuum lock. In other words, if the vents are open, gas can be locked in the tank if the tank vents are plugged. Try opening the tank gas cap when the bike is running on 3 cylinders to see if the cylinder kicks in and starts running. It could be that one carb's float level is a shade low and the bike is having problems drawing in gas. The last thing that is unlikly but possible is that the carbs are so far out of sync that one carb is getting almost NO engine vacuum at idle but even then, all four cylinders should kick in once the slides are raised when revving the engine.

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