TOPIC:

Guys and other;
I hate to be such a pantie weight, but I am undecided how to proceed with my '78-KZ1000. I have hesitated removing my carbs because I do not want to make matters worse than they are now. Also, I don't want to get the cart before the mini,,, err, I mean the horse.
I am fouling plugs lickety-split, in like just a matter of minutes running time. I have a high fuel level and an associated, tiny bit of overflow from at least one bowl as well, which is the only carb I have checked thus far for fuel level.
I want to take the carb rack off, set it on the work bench and go through it, setting float levels and doing as many checks and adjustments etc., as possible, but I am going to get really POed if I muck things up.
I would like to know if someone has a step by step, idiot proof method of 1) diagnosing my problem before I remove the carbs, and 2) how to proceed with as little back-sliding as possible.
I am reasonably certain that I don't have any valve or compression issues. If you could watch this thing get off the line, I think you would have to agree.
In fact, if I book at WOT long enough, I think I would hit 160 like, right now, _AND THEN_,,, when I shifted into third, I would really be outa' here!!!
I exaggerate only slightly. These things are monsters of the fire breathing variety. Why on earth or any other planet, would anyone want a quicker street bike?
Any and all words of encouragement welcomed.

my 900 fouled plugs left and right..i would go thru the carbs again and again. it turned out to be a weak ignition system. i put a dyna on it and my problems went away. good luck.

You can do it.
It's not really that difficult. Get a manual or at least a parts diagram from the kawasaki website. Get 4 shot glasses or soup bowls to keep all the little bits and label them 1,2,3 & 4. Dont get the bits mixed up. Get some spray carb cleaner and safety glasses (very important when spraying cleaner) and just take your time taking them apart. Take lots of time. Use thin guitar string or nylon brush bristle to poke through every hole. Read what it says here oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rcarbs.html

Like arobsum says it might be a weak spark and If caused by low voltage at the coils then easy to check with a multimeter. Check voltage at battery - should eb about 12.3V. With the ignition switched on and engine NOT running check the voltage between the frame (Neg) and live wire going into the coil where it connects at the coil terminal. Not sure what colour this is but there are only two to chose from and one wont give any reading. Ideally you should see the same V as at the battery but if it is down towards 11V then you found your problem and can look in the Filebase here for the coil powering modification.

Good luck

I concur. You can handle the carbs. But, if you need a set of coils, wires, points, etc., get 'em. While you're at it, do wiredgeorge's coil repower mod. (search the forum: more hits on that topic than any other) Easy, cheap and really works. Only after you are sparking hot and on time, should you tackle the carbs. A weak spark will mimic carb problems. Getting the spark 100% correct first will keep you from chasing your tail...

Good Luck!

Thanks arobsom, JR and andoman for your replys.
Here are a few more specifics.
I have the Clymer M359-3 shop/repair manual. I have poured over section 7 on fuel system and exhaust. It seems to spell things out OK, in so far as giving me insight into the theory of operation as far as the three carb circuits are concerned.
I have down-loaded, printed and read/studied in depth, the article (from wiredgeorge?) for coil repower of my pointless, Dyna S coil/solid state (?) ignition system. I might mention here that, while I don't remember the exact voltage drop I had from battery to coil control/ high side, I do remember it was only a few tenths of a volt.
Also, I down-loaded and studied the 3 articles in KZ info database concerning the Mikuni slide carbs for 1) KZ 650 carb tuning, 2) needle height adjustment and 3) VM slide carb troubleshooting.
The carbs look, for all the world like they were manufactured on Wednesday, taken out of a fresh, clean box, striped of cosmolene and installed on the bike yesterday.
I think I am just a sissy because I am older and more obsolete than the scooter itself!

I use NGK B7ES spark plugs, rather then B8ES. The B7ES plugs are one heat range hotter and are more resistant to fouling.

Ron

I just redid my carbs and was pleasantly surprised at how not difficult it was. I had been expecting much worse. You can do it too!

JimatMilkyWay wrote:

... have a high fuel level and an associated, tiny bit of overflow from at least one bowl as well, which is the only carb I have checked thus far for fuel level ... would like to know if someone has a step by step, idiot proof method of 1) diagnosing my problem before I remove the carbs.

Step #1 -- check service fuel level in all four carb float bowls. Use clear plastic tube method.

Ron G wrote:

I use NGK B7ES spark plugs, rather then B8ES. The B7ES plugs are one heat range hotter and are more resistant to fouling.

Ron

That was the first thing I did as well. Not much if any help.

Thanks Patton Dude.
I will try to find time this week end to test the other carbs and get pics of the tank set-up and fuel delivery system I made up for testing, just because I think it looks nifty.
I just need to work/play faster. There is just so much other crap to take care of down on the farm right now; what with the ice age we have going on. University where I work was closed all day Thur. and half the day Fri. because of a 7" snow dump. That ain't a lot for you guys in northern Siberia and all points north, but it is a pretty good load for us in the south, as we don't really have a lot of snow removal equipment. I managed to get my car up the drive on Fri, but wify-poo could not get out even still.