Long arm ?

Ok ? for the few that drag race right now my Gpz swing arm is 2 1/2" longer
then the stock KZ650 arm and with the bike hookin like it is there's
ne way I can keep the front down with out the wheelie bar.

I'm thinking about 6" over should work with out making it to long and
going back to spinin the tire so what do ya'll think?

Dave, I have a 6 - over Cal-fab on my 1105.

The bike will fully unload front shocks and pull front wheel off ground about 2 inches under the hardest launches. I never have to worry about wheelers or bike going over.

2" I can deal with it's the 2 foot wheelie's that kill me.

This thing will go alot quicker if it didn't lift the front so bad
Last time out ran my same number's with shitty 60ft. time's.
I was +.5 on my 60's and still ran an all time best mph with
the same 7.70 it has ran all year.

Ya, the longer you go on the swing-arm the less it will get up on you.....as weight is pushed forward........but you might find wheel spin to be your next problem if you go to far.

That new track tire seems to be working for you so I doubt you will have a problem

That's the deal I don't want to go to long and then loose
the weight transfer and go to spinnin again.
The tire work's like a bitch I've got more traction then I can use.
Also think taking some gear out and kill the bottom end a little would help.

6" over would probably be a good length to try. If you get to the point where it starts to spin on you again, then you would need to try running shocks. Softer setting will let the bike squat on launch and give tire a chance to hook before power starts to try to overpower grip. Stiffer the shock, the more prone to spinning you will have. Struts can work but with solid suspension, its a fine line between hook and spin. That's why a slick with struts work but not necessarily a street tire. Soft sidewall on slick will flex just enough to let tire set up and hook before power hits where street tire siedwalls are stiffer so need shocks to compensate. Strapping the front end down will help with the wheelie problem. The bike will have to overcome the forward weight bias to lift front end up but that will also make spin easier too with that weight bias. Its a touchy line to get to. Taking gearing out will slow you down some but will kill some of the tire spin tendencies also.

Racer I do run a strap but it still lift's the wheel about 40 feet out
sliding the clutch till about there.
Once I get the clutch all the way out it's making enough power to
wheelie.
Gearing I'm 16-45 now and gonna go back to 16-42 already have it
set up to swap real quick sprocket's on another carrier and I run
two master link's so swap the peice of chain for the shorter one.

Simple solution...you are making too much power....you need to build a smaller motor! Looks like you are back to the basics....throttle and clutch management. Fine line to walk for sure. Longer wheelbase will really help with that frontend coming up.

Stop at 57 second's.

sounds like a good application for a four to eight inch adjustable swingarm. :whistle:

leon

When I see bikes turning 1.50"s 60' times at 62" wheelbase busting off 8 second passes I'd say stick with the, "I'm just guessing now" 58-60" wheel base and learn to get it on with that. Trust me! Been there and done that and until I made real efforts at solving the issue instead of covering it up I learned nothing except, when it was all said and done, I wasn't that good of rider. Back then, I'd hand you your ass on the street but I couldn't get a bike down the track to save my life!!
FYI, 62" has always been my favorite wheelbase, why? Don't know but It works for me and apparently, quite a few street racers.

Les Holt

Les I'm at 58 1/2" now and plan on 3 1/2" more so yes your 62"
is where I'm headed.
As for covering up I'm not new to drag racing.I can ride the bike..
With the old 130 GT501 Dunlop that would spin alot
I was running consistent low 1.70 60 ft.'s with 00 light's..
Now with the 140 Shinko 006 tire that doesn't spin and a better tune
and more gear it want's to wheelie bad.