TOPIC:

PLUMMEN wrote:

hell,i can make it look purty with any kind of rod!
i can make it look purty welding flat,vertical up,vertical down and overhead

plummen you wanted pictures.....im not into the mines bigger than yours is. this is a prime example of what 6010 and 7018 will do to schedule 40 pipe. the fact that you pmed me about your argument is enough to get me to back off. i dont want to argue. good fortune.

tac in place will be mig. as its quick but overall weld i want to do with the TIG i have coming. well its a TIG, ARC and plasma cutter combo. hehe.

Who did you buy your welder from BB?

I would tack with MIG using ER70-S6. Finish with TIG using ER70-S2.
6010 is used a lot for code welding pipe. It's dirty, penetrates a lot and is difficult to weld with. 7018 is a low hydrogen rod used for structural steel fabrication. It would probably make a good frame weld but stick, aka SMAW, would be very difficult to use on a frame. Wire dia for your MIG and TIG will vary with the wall thickness of the tubing used. .023" would probably be OK for the MIG. 3/32" would probably be a good compromise for the TIG. Maybe 1/8" on the larger tubes. Use type 308 for general purpose on SS. Aluminum I have very little experience with. Ask your welding supplies dealer.
Tom

kz1k wrote:

6010 for penetration, 7018 for cover pass. the forst 2 numbers are tinsel strenght, the third number is the position, and im not sure what the last number is. but you wont need to know that. JUST DO IT!

not to be argumentative,but i spent 2 years in welding school 30 years ago.....the first 2 numbers are tensile strength in thousands of pounds per square inch...the last two numbers are for flux composition and positions the rod can be used in.....i forget which is which on the last two....i do remember filling in 2inch bevels with a backer and cutting out a strip and stress testing it.....one minute piece of slag left behind and 2 hours of laying down beads gone to shit............i would mig everything on a bike frame.....hell, i worked at pathfinder snowplows in high school in the mid-eighties and everything was migged......they held together fine and they take a lot more stress than a kz flexi-flier.......just my .02

keith1 wrote:

kz1k wrote:

6010 for penetration, 7018 for cover pass. the forst 2 numbers are tinsel strenght, the third number is the position, and im not sure what the last number is. but you wont need to know that. JUST DO IT!

not to be argumentative,but i spent 2 years in welding school 30 years ago.....the first 2 numbers are tensile strength in thousands of pounds per square inch...the last two numbers are for flux composition and positions the rod can be used in.....i forget which is which on the last two....i do remember filling in 2inch bevels with a backer and cutting out a strip and stress testing it.....one minute piece of slag left behind and 2 hours of laying down beads gone to shit............i would mig everything on a bike frame.....hell, i worked at pathfinder snowplows in high school in the mid-eighties and everything was migged......they held together fine and they take a lot more stress than a kz flexi-flier.......just my .02

it doesnt bother me when people call me a "migger"

kz1k wrote:

keith1 wrote:

kz1k wrote:

6010 for penetration, 7018 for cover pass. the forst 2 numbers are tinsel strenght, the third number is the position, and im not sure what the last number is. but you wont need to know that. JUST DO IT!

not to be argumentative,but i spent 2 years in welding school 30 years ago.....the first 2 numbers are tensile strength in thousands of pounds per square inch...the last two numbers are for flux composition and positions the rod can be used in.....i forget which is which on the last two....i do remember filling in 2inch bevels with a backer and cutting out a strip and stress testing it.....one minute piece of slag left behind and 2 hours of laying down beads gone to shit............i would mig everything on a bike frame.....hell, i worked at pathfinder snowplows in high school in the mid-eighties and everything was migged......they held together fine and they take a lot more stress than a kz flexi-flier.......just my .02

it doesnt bother me when people call me a "migger"

ooook well i guess i will mig for now then but i do need to use the tig on some area. even if it is to make the mig welds look good. lmao

Tig is absolutely fine, these guys have been talking about stick welding. Who did you get your welder from BB? I got a tig machine from Everlast but I have had some trouble with it and am now waiting for a replacement

cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem...geName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

this is the one im now getting, i changed it as i realised the tig, arc plasma cutter was only ac. and that aint no good just ac. lol.

TIG= very hard to do and even harder to make look pretty if you don't do it all the time. Stick= also hard to do but not quite as difficult as TIG. Great if you want to fix your tractor, not so much on what is basically rolled up sheet metal. MIG= easy to do with minimal practice, probably the best method for this job. Would not use anything over .030 wire and would use a tri-mix gas if you can, they offer better penatration and provide a cleaner weld. Just .02 from me.

andy9802gt wrote:

TIG= very hard to do and even harder to make look pretty if you don't do it all the time. Stick= also hard to do but not quite as difficult as TIG. Great if you want to fix your tractor, not so much on what is basically rolled up sheet metal. MIG= easy to do with minimal practice, probably the best method for this job. Would not use anything over .030 wire and would use a tri-mix gas if you can, they offer better penatration and provide a cleaner weld. Just .02 from me.

what he said......

Hey folks, I am a professional welder/fabricator, in the motorsports industry, while I have never made a motorcycle frame, I plan to.

Preferred joining methods, TIG, oxy/acetylene welding, fillet brazing, mig. Stick is very difficult to do on thin gauge tubing with good results, for a beginner, I would recommend MIG, no questions, get your machine set perfectly on some scrap tube, get your rhythm down, cut up some of your test pieces to check for defects/penetration.

I am certified on 6g stick pipe and would never consider using it for this sort of application.