What type of oil is for transmission?

For KZ1000 LTD 80'
same as the titel. Is the transmission oil is same as the engine oil?
how about the gear oil? what type do I need to use and how can I change it.

Thanks!

Post edited by: Toge, at: 2006/11/26 21:33

Your engine oil is cycled through the transmission, when you change the engine oil, you're changing the oil in the transmission too. Is this bike a shaft drive? thats the only application for gear oil I can think of on one of these bikes. As to what type of engine oil, there are a million arguments on that and thats going to scare people away from replying..I personally use ordinary castrol GTX 20w-50, but wouldn't hesitate to use Shell Rotella-t if it were more convenient for me to use. I'd stay away from synthetics as they tend to find any potential for leaks/burning in somwhat worn-in motors that have always used conventional oil.

engine and trans use the same oil.there is a drain plug and oil filter cover under bike on oil pan;)

As your bike probably did not come with an "Owner Manual" (look in the under-seat tray), I would reiterate WG's suggestion from your "engine prob" thread, and urge you to first acquire a shop manual to learn about routine maintenance procedures (with pictures) and much more. Clymer has a readily available manual and the official factory shop manual is often available on eBay. A Haynes shop manual is listed at Z1 Enterprises (see following link). I believe all these manuals have a separate section for owner maintenance, including full details about oil changes, etc.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=230

hmm......therefore, sythetic can be not good for motor....it's first time I heard....but experience is more important....thnak you for sharing ...

wow, thank you for help me find this web! it's the cheapest one I ever seen:)

Toge wrote:

hmm......therefore, sythetic can be not good for motor....it's first time I heard....but experience is more important....thnak you for sharing ...

Why wouldn't synthetic oils be any good?

Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, Shell Rotella - 10/40 - 20/50 they all work just peachy. Nada problem.

That said, "standard" creme' d'Inosaur erls work perfectly fine as well.

Just stay away from anything with teflon in suspension - especially additives like "Slick 50" and all that...

del

Your clutch operates in the oil bath shared by the motor and transmission and has plates which squeeze tightly together when driving the rear wheel. If the oil is too slicky, the clutch may slip especially during acceleration. This is one reason to avoid "teflon" and "Slick50" additives -- to help prevent clutch slippage.

Any standard automotive oil (10W-40, 20W-50, etc.) should be just fine so long as you avoid the newer SJ and SL oils with additives that may cause clutch slipping (which usually have a "Starburst" on them and say "Energy Conserving"). Motorcycle specific oil is also good, but costs more.

The maintenance schedule for your bike probably calls for oil change every 2000 miles and oil filter change every other oil change. Personally I change both oil and filter every 2000 miles. Others play it even safer by changing both oil and filter at 1000 mile intervals.

Oil changes are undoubtedly one of the most important routine maintenance items, but there are also several other important periodic adjustments, checks and changes needed.

You have a beautiful bike and I wish you success in keeping it running as good as it looks.

Thank you Patton, I just take off my spark plugs, and there are a lot of carbon( the black stuff stick on the head of plug...) anyways, I think because of that which cuase my engine doesn't ignite. I am trying to modified my bike looks like cafe race style, do you have any idea of that?

Post edited by: Toge, at: 2006/11/26 21:30

The black stuff either indicates that you might be having a rich fuel mix especially if you don't see ignition of the plug, ooorrrr you might have some oil consumption in the cylinders, but lets leave that for last. You can turn the air mix screws to get more air and less fuel or you can check the gap on your splugs and if they are below .028" you might have a spark thats is too weak to ignite all the fuel in the cylinders. I would turn it up to .030". That might help.