No fire on #1

I am starting a new thread on this as the old one is getting long and I want to clarify the things I have dont to resolve. Symptom is no fire on #1. Here is what has been done.

1. New plugs and wires.
2. Cleaned carbs.
3. Checked compression on #1-130.
4. Swapped in another coil.
5. Found timing advancer seized at max advanced-fixed.
6. Coil power mod.-Runs like never before, just on 3 cyl
7. Swapped plug wires at coil
8. Swapped #1 and #4 plugs.
9. Pulled plug wires apart to insure good connection.
10. Measured resistance between 1 and 4 at plug caps-23k
11. Balanced the carbs for the heck of it.(Was out a bit)

At this point I think I have eliminated any electrical cause for this right? When I pulled the plug wires apart, I did add some dielectric grease to insure long life. The connections all looked good and did the ohm test to make sure. One more thing I want to check, If it is just the idle circuit in the carb, it will start fireing if I raise the RPMs right? I want to check this tonight because I seem to remember a power surge when reaching a higher RPM.

Post edited by: 750LTDRider, at: 2006/09/05 12:27

Are you sure you've got fuel in the #1 carb? Float's not sticking? Line's not plugged?

Yea forgot to mention that. I opened the bowl drain and had plenty of fuel pour out.

I just read your other thread on this topic and based on the fact that you have fuel in the floatbowl and you got #1 to fire by holding your hand over the intake, I would say that your idle system is plugged on that carb or you have a low float level. Holding your hand over the intake will increase vacuum in the intake tract, pulling fuel in through available openings, such as the main circuit. It will also draw fuel up through the idle circuit if it is not plugged. If the float level is too low, too much vacuum is required to pull the fuel up into the airstream and the mixture will be too lean; it could get so lean that it will not fire at all.

Or you have a vacuum leak on #1. Is the rubber intake block in good condition?

Well I know I need to replace the intake blocks as they do all leak a little. But when I hooked up my carb balancer, I got good vacuume on #1. I think if that boot was leaking that bad, I would see it there. As far as the idle circuit, I was thinking the same. I just cleaned this carb, and blew it out with compressed air, but must still have a clog. Can I run wires through the passages on the body? Are they all straight or do they curve and T off.

I'm not sure. What make and model of carbs do you have?

I just verified that it is an idle circuit problem. Started and reved to 5000 and #1 pipe was hot. Interestingly I also noticed that #2 was not as hot at 5000 RPM as the others, but did get there.

I dont know the exact model of the carbs, I do know that they are Kaw #16001-1741. They are Keikhin and marked 1739 UK04.

Sorry, I can't help you with Keihins. Mine are Mikunis. Maybe someone else on the list can help out. When I rebuilt my carbs, I shot carb cleaner through all the orifices, then followed up with compressed air.

750LTDRider wrote:

.......... Can I run wires through the passages on the body? Are they all straight or do they curve and T off.

I have Keihins on mine and have found through experience - ie learning the hard way that the only way to clean them is to do it really thoroughly. I take them totally apart without taking them off the rack. I use shot glasses labelled 1, 2, 3, 4 for all the little bits. I unscrew all the jets. I would hesitate to run wire through the passageways. I use nylon bristle from a sweeping brush. Some passageways are straight through but some are curved. If you remove the tops and gently remove the diaphragms you will find some very small passageways which connect with the bottom. You can maybe get a bristle through. I have also use 50lb nylon fishing line. If you have a manual great. If not then you can get carb parts diagram at www.kawasaki.com

One final suggestion is not to neglect the transition holes - only found out what these were called recently but can guarantee that if blocked will impact low speed running. To find these look into the carb part which connects to the engine. Not sure isf this is called the throat. Look to the roof. You will first see one tiny hole which is underneath the air fuel mixture screw. To the right (maybe left)of that is the tiny hole which leads to the vacuum nipple. Open the throttle flap and look to the roof behind the first hole and you should see 3 tiny tiny holes. These are the transition holes. With these I have used really fine wire.
If at any point you decide to use spray carb cleaner then please please use safety glasses because as sure as you shoot it down one hole it will shoot up another and hit you in the face. You dont want to get that stuff in your eyes.

Hope this helps

Thanks for the tips. I did almost all of this just a few weeks ago. Pulled all the jets and such out and soaked in carb cleaner. I also used an air compressor to blow out the passages in the body, but apperently still have some clogged ones. I will try the fishing line to see if I can open up the rest.

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