Problems installing Andrews x3 camshafts

Thank you for the translation.)))I wanted to remove, i.e. lower the guides by 3 mm. But now I understand where the dog is buried)))Those people who changed my guide bushings to APE were very responsible......They removed the retaining rings from the Kawasaki bushings and placed them on the APE bushings.To say I'm evil is an understatement....     The photo is not very clearly visible, but a thin screwdriver clings to the stopper.

Thanks for the info, but I think I found a reason..... Described it in a separate post.

Sometimes Z1 heads use a retaining ring on the valve guides, I had one like that on the exhaust side, not sure if it was a repair for a loose guide? Not really sure as I have never seen this on 650/750 heads.

They are held in on the tappet bore bottom face so you need to clearance the spring guide cup by grinding a small window to give clearance to the "ears" or else the spring guide won't sit flush by a few mm.

Here is one I had to fix on that '75 head. Not the best picture but you get the idea.




 

Yeah, I see what you're talking about, thanks. I had to shorten the guides to prevent the valve stem from touching the oil seal. The head is still being worked on, so I can't say yet what the outcome will be...

Hello everyone! The guide issue has been resolved. New guides were machined and lowered by 3 mm. The guide height is now 11 mm from the spring seating surface.The gap between the upper plate and the valve stem seal is now ~1.5 mm.The compression ratio issue remains to be addressed...

The next challenge is compression ratio...I'll be using these pistons: MTC 82mm, with a displacement of 14.2 cm³.To achieve a compression ratio of 10.5, I'll need a 43- 44 cm³ combustion chamber. The current combustion chamber is 46.5 mm³.Basically, I need to mill the cylinder head...I'll probably start with 1 mm, and then we'll see. 

   I use this calculator to calculate compression ratio.Does anyone know exactly how much the KZ1000J cylinder head needs to be cut to reduce combustion chamber volume by 2 cm³?

Another alternative is to mill the piston top off the drag piston. Doing it this way also reduces that hot spot from the peak.

Below is a MTC 80mm version done to reduce compression for the street (once had a peak - 13:1 piston)

 

Piston dome volume marked as displaced liquid from graduated cylinder.

If you have too much compression it may be hard to start. I would shoot for 9:1 as with 1400cc its still going to be a monster, 9:1 will also run cooler.

 

Hi! Thanks, but you probably get my point.)With a geometric compression ratio of 9, the dynamic compression ratio with a 3x camshaft will be ~7.5. Which isn't very good even for a 1400cc engine.For more or less normal engine operation, the geometric compression ratio should be ~10.3 - 10.5, then the dynamic compression ratio will be ~8.5, which is basically normal.

I also have a powerful starter from a Honda CB1100 (but I could be wrong), it’s more powerful than the Kawasaki starter)))

1mm off the head seems "way" too much unless you want a diesel !!!! Assuming the combustion chamber is around 69mm diameter (all "J" motors I believe use the same head so the chamber can't be bigger than the !000 bore) then the "area" of the chamber opening is 37.42cm2 - therefore 2cc would equate to a 0.53mm skim
PS: When you calculated your CR have you deducted that significant piston dome from the chamber volume (I suspect it will be way less than 46.5cc that you quoted ?)

Of course I did the math; I use a proven calculator to calculate compression ratio. And with my data, I need to reduce the combustion chamber by about 3.5 cm³.The original combustion chamber on the J engine is 40 cm³. After installing larger valves and adjusting their sag to accommodate the 3X camshaft, my chamber increased to 46.5 cm³.Removing 1 mm from the head is about 3.5 cm³.If I'm wrong, please correct me.