Chrome nuts

I recently purchased a 1980 KZ750E that has lived mostly in a garage. Most of the chrome is slightly tarnished with very light rust, which cleans up nicely. 
My head bolts are lightly coated with the red/brown stuff and I'm thinking about removing one bolt at a time for polishing and re-torquing, any thoughts from the gallery? 

I see no reason why you can’t do that, so I say go for it. My only word of advice is to say that I have had those nuts fall off on me before, so I use medium (blue) thread locker on them now. 

Edit: I reread your post and realized you’re talking about different bolts than I thought you were. I thought you meant the exhaust header flange nuts. 

The head nuts are usually installed in a certain order.  You should be able to remove them all and then re-install in the correct order.  That's what I would do.

Once you're torqued them to the correct value and run the bike a bit you should check them all to ensure they are still all good.

I may be off here, but I would not remove the head nuts, out of fear of creating a leak.  One at a time...maybe, but I'd try cleaning around them first.

And BTW, torquing the nuts is a good idea.  Back off the nut until it just starts to move, then quickly, switch directions and tighten.

BTW2, these small wire wheels are good to get into small places... www.amazon.com/Brushes-Rocaris-Wheels-Ac...Dremel/dp/B07PKS819T

[img]4530ea643661ab98f0362fccf9cf08c0[/img]   

Nessism wrote:

BTW2, these small wire wheels are good to get into small places... www.amazon.com/Brushes-Rocaris-Wheels-Ac...Dremel/dp/B07PKS819T

those wire wheels also come in brass which should be less abrasive than steel. since brass is lower on the mohs scale. some sellers on ebbay sell both together. I use the brass but the steel probably would be preferable in some cases.

   We'd suggest one at a time, in order of tightening as spec's in the manual.  If all the nuts are removed it completely unloads the base gasket, which can induce weeps.
   If copper crush washers are under the nuts, suggest to use new ones (ideally) or, anneal the used washers prior to re-installation.
  Once everything is done & tight, warm up the motor completely to operation temp once, allow to cool for 12 ~ 24 hrs., then re-torque.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

I would agree that if you remove all the nuts at the same time you will very likely have leaks on both the head gasket and base gasket (if you could remove all the nuts at the same time then head gaskets would be "re-usable" which obviously they're not !!!)

As long as the barrels and head don't move there is no issue with removing all the nuts.  I've done it.  No issues.  As for the gaskets themselves, they are not being re-used.  That implies the head and barrels have been removed, which is not the case if you are simply de-torquing the nuts.  Here is a question for those who think it's very likely....have you ever tried it?  Or do you know anyone who did it and had a leak?  I don't.

All that said, removing one at a time is probably a better procedure.

hardrockminer wrote:

As long as the barrels and head don't move there is no issue with removing all the nuts.  I've done it.  No issues.  As for the gaskets themselves, they are not being re-used.  That implies the head and barrels have been removed, which is not the case if you are simply de-torquing the nuts.  Here is a question for those who think it's very likely....have you ever tried it?  Or do you know anyone who did it and had a leak?  I don't.

All that said, removing one at a time is probably a better procedure.

HRM, in answer to your question - no I haven't tried it. I have always been of the belief that a "single use" gasket once compressed will not re-seal effectively therefore I wouldn't invite potential problems. This is of course only my opinion. I think over the years we have all "got away with things" that probably weren't the best way of approaching the issue.,

Those nuts are chrome plated as you've found out. You can clean all you want, in place or out, that rust is going to come back. The sacrificial coating of chrome has already been compromised already. You really only see the outside 4 anyway, just buy 4 new ones. Only like 7bucks a piece, use for the "appearance" outer ends. These 4 outers i believe are live on the 750. Meaning there's oil pressure under these 4 outer ones. Reuse the copper, just rub some, i like Hylomar, on both sides of that copper washer before reinstalling. And Yes, one at a time, nothings going to warp/crack. 

Wookie, in order to re-seal, the gaskets need to "un-seal".  If the head and barrels remain in place they don't unseal.  They may relax a bit at worst.

I think the nuts are nickel alloy, not chrome plated.  I've cleaned many of them in the. past with good results.