Locating pin trouble

When I split the crankcases and removed the input and output shafts this is what I found. One locating pin sitting proud like it should be and the other has been pushed down flush with the mating surface. It is a solid pin which sits very tight. I thought a very strong rare earth magnet might lift it but to no avail. I heated the area and tapped with a hammer but still no go. It has had a good soaking overnight with RP7 but still no good. Drilling it looks like a hard job. Any ideas. 

Is the case broken on the other side?

If you can't get to it from behind then drill it with a small size bit, tap a thread in it, screw in a bolt with a washer and nut tighten to the head to give you something to grip and pull it carefully out. 
You will be able to reuse it with a threaded hole down the center. 

The case is not broken on the other side, I was thinking at one stage I could drill a hole on the other side to see if I could leverage it up. I will consider drilling a hole in it and maybe using an easy out but it looks like really hard steel and it is only 6 mm diameter. Might have to take it to an engineering shop and let them have a go at it.

You could also check for a local shop with an EDM machine.

You could also buy one, learn how to use it, and we could all send our broken bits to you.......

portableedm.com

It is important to get that fixed.

I would try to pry it up using a small sharp wood chisel against some thin scrap wood.

Your going to have to hammer into it then try to smooth out the gouge so it slips into the locating hole.
You just need enough length to locate the end cap as there is a small oiling hole in it that feeds the trans bearings (orifice #14)


 

Is that a 750 twin? Looks like it due to the counter balance bosses.
I had a broken crank journal because of the wreck in 86. It was a big chip that I had to have welded. Couldn't remember if the pin was straight through or if it had a flange to hold it in. I went back on my 750 crank thread to see if I had any pics there but nothing but dead videos. After reading the text I remembered I had to drill out the hole to make it round again. I thought I'd have to use a pin from a 630 chain but the pin fit good enough to hold the bearing in place. In your case I wonder if the pin was pushed into a oil galley to make it that low. Could be a flaw in the casting but in any event I'd check to make sure. The pin needs to be there even if you have to fill it to make it stand out.
Steve 
.  kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/597654...kaw?start=336#757073

You can try a spot welder hook and pull hammer any good car body shop should have to remove dents.
It´s less invasiv in my opinion and a lot of heat to the case is your friend during the task....

It may be easier to drill a new second hole in the end cap and drill a new dowel hole on the case. Even a 3/32" split pin would be good enough to locate it in the correct spot.

There is a very small oil supply hole in the oil galley spot. Any shift in placement of the race will starve it for oil. 

SWest wrote:

There is a very small oil supply hole in the oil galley spot. Any shift in placement of the race will starve it for oil. 


 

Yes, new hole and dowel to the outboard edge on the same center as the flush pin. From the outer edge of case to the OD of flush pin its .348" so plenty of room to do such a thing (have bare 650 cases here)

This would be a last ditch effort after trying to pry it or the weld and pull (I don't own a welder)

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I ended up taking it to the bloke that does the vapour blasting in Mt. Gambier he has worked on many z900 since the early 1970's and he had done that particular repair job. He drilled a hole beneath the pin from the rear and tapped the pin back into position then filled the hole of a hard setting liquid metal. Not sure of what it is called but it is very solid, took him 20 minutes to do the job. He is a wealth of knowledge on all things old KZ and Z model Kawasakis