My alternator rotor just came loose.

My alternator rotor just came loose, breaking the wedge. 

What torque is applied to the screw that holds it?

Is the order in which the pieces go correct in the photograph? since the manual is confusing.
 

Assembly from left to right appears correct in your picture, but do confirm that the bolt/washer are correct for the application. 



My 82 KZ1100 takes a hardened flange bolt (part number 92001-1146) as shown above that does not utilize a separate washer.  The specified torque spec is something like 95 ft.lbs. which may be excessive for the bolt shown in your picture. 

Also note that the mating surfaces of the rotor and crankshaft must be smooth (with no damage) for the parts to fit as required.



 

The rotor bolt on the Kz900 and early model Kz1000 ('77/'78) is only a 8mm bolt. I never used more than 15 lbs torque on it. I can't believe what the real KAWASAKI shop manual tells you to torque that little 8mm bolt too!!! I always put some blue Loctite on that bolt on my bikes.
The rotors that used the little keyway (92038-001) were prone to breaking and causing the rotor to freewheel on crank end. If the crank end is not smooth, I would lap the rotor to the crank end with some lapping compound till I got a smooth finish on the crank end before I assembled the rotor to the  crank.

I went through that and that's what I did. I also made my own Woodruff key and used a hardened allen head bolt.
Steve

The parts diagram for the KZ900A4 (sorry, I do not know exactly what the po has) shows a separate bolt and washer as correct. It also shows the correct orientation for the various parts.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...erator-starter-motor

TexasKZ wrote:

The parts diagram for the KZ900A4 (sorry, I do not know exactly what the po has) shows a separate bolt and washer as correct. It also shows the correct orientation for the various parts.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...erator-starter-motor

It is a kz1000 A1.

Well, the parts diagrams list an 8 X 40 bolt and washer for the A1, but a 10 X 40 shoulder bolt for the A2, suggesting that Kawasaki saw the need for an upgrade.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...motor-starter-clutch

Dr. Gamma wrote:

The rotor bolt on the Kz900 and early model Kz1000 ('77/'78) is only a 8mm bolt. I never used more than 15 lbs torque on it. I can't believe what the real KAWASAKI shop manual tells you to torque that little 8mm bolt too!!! I always put some blue Loctite on that bolt on my bikes.
The rotors that used the little keyway (92038-001) were prone to breaking and causing the rotor to freewheel on crank end. If the crank end is not smooth, I would lap the rotor to the crank end with some lapping compound till I got a smooth finish on the crank end before I assembled the rotor to the  crank.


 

Had personal experince with a welded crank I purchased recently that came with the rotor attached.  One rotor magnet had visible damage apparently from making contact with the stator while the engine was running.  When the rotor was removed, I found that some of the rotor metal was left behind on the crankshaft.
That literal blob of rotor metal was removed using a fine-toothed file, which required a lot of care to avoid damaging the crank surface in the process.
 
I think most (if not all) transferred rotor material from the rotor needs to be removed from the crank-end before lapping.