TOPIC:

Thanks! I'll recheck later today. I assume the only way to know what shim is under the bucket is by removing it and checking? 

dthemac wrote:

Thanks! I'll recheck later today. I assume the only way to know what shim is under the bucket is by removing it and checking? 

Correct, you can then use the chart in the manual to identify the correct size - from the picture it looks like the shims are on top of the buckets so with the right tool you can replace them with the cams in situ.
The cheapest way would be to measure them all, then remove the cams and measure the shims that you already have (if you are lucky you can move some around and reduce the amount of new ones required) You have to remove the cams to do this as you can't rotate them on the buckets once the shims are removed but you won't need any special tools to change the shims

Wait really? I thought they were under the buckets on this engine. 

dthemac wrote:

Wait really? I thought they were under the buckets on this engine. 

I don't know for sure, just looks like they are on top in the picture

EDIT: looks like you are right, remember when removing the cams to slacked the retaining bolts evenly to avoid damage 

 

Here is a link to a bunch of info specific to the small fours, especially the 550. I recommend you download as much as you think you will ever need, as the author, Lou, died a couple of years ago, so there is no telling how much longer the site will be up.

​​​​​​https://s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/index.html

Also, the factory method of measuring the lash is a little more tedious, but will insure that there is equal spring pressure on each lobe being measured. If the cam bearings are really tight, the difference will be pretty small, but if they have a little wear, there will be a measurable difference in the measurements between the factory method and just pointing each cam lobe straight up.

Yeah it looks like it's under bucket, so I'll have to pull the cams. Are shims something I have to order or can they be had from like a cycle gear? 

....and don´t forget to reset the cam chain tensioner before you put the cam cover back on top.

s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/CamsKZZXZR550500...KZZXZR550500400.html

dthemac wrote:

Yeah it looks like it's under bucket, so I'll have to pull the cams. Are shims something I have to order or can they be had from like a cycle gear? 

I'm not sure, maybe another member in your part of the world can best advise (where are you?)

Much appreciated! 

I'm in Southwest Ohio. 

dthemac wrote:

Yeah it looks like it's under bucket, so I'll have to pull the cams. Are shims something I have to order or can they be had from like a cycle gear? 

You may be able to swap some of them around to different positions and reduce the number of replacement shims you need. If there is a dealership nearby, the shop may be willing to sell you the shims you need, or if you are really luck, may be willing to swap them.

Also, the factory method of measuring the lash is a little more tedious, but will insure that there is equal spring pressure on each lobe being measured. If the cam bearings are really tight, the difference will be pretty small, but if they have a little wear, there will be a measurable difference in the measurements between the factory method and just pointing each cam lobe straight up.

This line in the FSM is what is throwing me off. Does this mean that there should be two lobes in position to measure when at TDC?