TOPIC:

I edited your post as the attachment was showing as a page of code !

You beat me to fixing it haha. Should be good now. 

dthemac wrote:

Also, the factory method of measuring the lash is a little more tedious, but will insure that there is equal spring pressure on each lobe being measured. If the cam bearings are really tight, the difference will be pretty small, but if they have a little wear, there will be a measurable difference in the measurements between the factory method and just pointing each cam lobe straight up.

This line in the FSM is what is throwing me off. Does this mean that there should be two lobes in position to measure when at TDC? 

Yes, that is correct. When at TDC, one set of valves will be ready to measure. Once that is done, rotate the crank one revolution to TDC and the other set will be ready.
Keep in mind that the camshafts turn 1/2 revolution for every 1 revolution of the crankshaft.

From the manual.
With cyl 1@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on intakes 1 and 3.
With cyl 2@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on exhaust 2 and 4.
With cyl 3@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on exhaust 1 and 3.
With cyl  4@ at TDC of the power stroke, measure the clearance on intakes 2 and 4

DO NOT forget to remove the cam chain tentioner cap (17mm socket), spring and wedge BEFORE you put rocker cover back on as you will OVERTENSION the camchain
clearences , aim for halfway between spec or towards the high end if poss.
Double check timing after cam refit a few times

rob B

Okay so after not being able to touch the bike for a few days, I finally got around to pulling the cams after checking the clearances again, properly. 3 of the 8 were at the low end of spec, and the rest were under spec.

Now, I'm a little lost. There aren't any shims, are there? 

Reply to say that I am in fact an idiot, and the shims were all stuck to the inside of the buckets.

It looks like I can swap around 3 of the shims to other buckets, but I'll have to purchase 5 of them.

It would be worth pulling the Tacho Drive and re-fitting when the cams are back in to avoid damage to the Drive gear

I took it out after I took the picture, I couldn't find the right size hex key at first.

Is there anything else I should worry about or is worth doing while I have the top off? Getting the gasket cleaned off is going to be a pain. And it looks like a previous owner did something in here at some point. One of the cam cap bolts was not a stock part.

Okay so I removed the allen bolt holding the pinion in place but never removed the worm gear. I'm back at it today and really struggling to figure this out. I've got the pinion to turn, but it's not backing out. Any ideas? 

Knock it out with light taps and a piece of a wooden stick on the worm gear. Some heat will soften the binding o-ring.