Kz650 starter clutch swap/upgrade.

Hi all!

So, the starter clutch on my -79 kz650 has startet slipping after engaging for a second or two. I've read that you can buy a repair kit for it (pins, rollers & springs) but that people have had mixed luck/experiences with these.

I read here that the starter clutch from the newer zephyr models is a direct swap/upgrade for this bike. And was wondering if this one would fit? It is taken from a kawasaki ZR 750S year 2001



Best regardsØ

kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/607684-kz650-...on-zr7s-part?start=0

Here is the original write up about the swap.
I'm not too familiar with the zephyr models, so I just want to make sure it fits before I open up my engine

The Zeph 750, nothing else than a KZ750 with a few improvements for the '90s.    All the starter clutches were same from the KZ650...KZ750 to Zeph750.    So it is not an upgrade,  Just the same.   The ZR-7 finally switched to the sprag type, ...that would be an upgrade, as it is stronger, but very expensive, as you need also the ZR-7 secondary shaft, and oil pump....plus the starter clutch..

There were not Zeph in 2001.   Not in North America.  The sold only to '93.     That looks like the one for the ZR-7...with 2nd shaft.  you may need the oil pump also.  It is also bigger capacity.     Zeph 750 and ZR-7 were both designated ZR-750, but there were very big significant differences in the engine.     This was one of them.

I thought ZR-7 was just an abbreviation for Zephyr 750  (As I said, I'm not to familiar with these bikes)

The part I'm thinking of installing is this one, which I posted photos of in the first post:
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Which according to the thread I posted ^ should be a direct swap without having to install anything else(?) But please correct me if I'm wrong

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Looks like you are on the right track.  I don't think the entire secondary shaft is a straight swap, just the clutch and related parts.

wrote:

Looks like you are on the right track.  I don't think the entire secondary shaft is a straight swap, just the clutch and related parts.

Hi Ed, you should use the secondary shaft as well, daftrusty tells why 2/3rd's down the page in this link, i'm doing this mod as well....

kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/602462-kz750e-resto-mod?start=48
 

Okay guys, I finally managed to get the parts for the swap, but just to be sure (double checking)
This is all the parts I need right?

By the way, the starter clutch looks to be complete with the secondary shaft in the photo, so correct me if I'm wrong but this whole part should be a direct swap with the new oil pump and pressure relief valve, right?

Starter Clutch Kawasaki ZR 750S - 2001
(920481068)   (160851300)



Oil Pump Kawasaki ZR 750S - 2001
(160821158)



Oil Pressure Relief Valve Kawasaki ZR 7 - 1999
(161261108)

Even though, I have never done it myself, other than working on my own starter clutch, from what I know, yes, those are the parts needed.   Daftrusty, a member of this forum is the one who did it, and his pictures are around as you already know.

....and yes, you did get the whole secondary shaft.   The starting clutch itself is the one between the cranking motor gear and the primary chain gear.     ..it is looking good.

Oysteinaar -  Those are exactly the pieces you need. The secondary shaft will literally bolt right in since you are using the zr-7 oil pump. There will be zero compatibly issues. 
There are a couple of things to check on the whole secondary shaft, primary hub and starter clutch:
1. Check the rubber dampers in the primary hub. The ones in mine were badly cracked and rock hard. You “may” still be able to buy new ones from Kawasaki. (They we’re back ordered when I tried to buy them, but that was years ago.)
New dampers will help lessen the noise created the primary chain and since you are already in there, the effort to replace them is minimal. 
2. There are two washer/shims in the starter clutch and hub. They look the same, but they are not!! One is thinner than the other and if assembled in the incorrect order your starter clutch will not free wheel, but will lock up solid as soon as the secondary shaft is bolted in. (Ask me how I know) 
So if you take the primary hub apart to check the dampers or take the starter hub out to inspect/clean it, make sure you put the washers back in the right order. 
The correct orientation:

 

Daftrusty: Are you sure about the washer orientation? I have not switched anything yet, but this is the orientation they were when I got it (stock? Unless the guy who sold it swapped them around).

The part number description lists them by size on partzilla.com, that is how I discovered my mistake. One is 2mm thick, the other is 3.2mm.
I also put mine back together in the order I took it apart when I received it. But if the seller slid everything off the shafts when removing it from the motor, then they could have easily mixed them up. Being years later, I simply can’t remember exactly why it caused everything to bind when torqued up, but I just know that it happened.  
This is exactly why I raised awareness to this issue. 

I manually measured the old and new assembly from gear to gear and you appear to be right!

Thanks alot, you saved me alot of headaches later on

Now I only have to get everything back together, fingers crossed that I wont have any problems or leaks