'82 Spectre Valve Clearances - what am I doing wrong?

While waiting for my carb sync gauge to arrive, I decided to check the valve clearances.  Have never done this before, so watched a couple videos, read a bunch of stuff here and seems pretty straight forward.  So I thought.

I've measured two different ways.  1st going following the cam order 1, 2, 4, 3 and measuring each one with the lobe pointed straight away from the valve (the 'youtube' method).  2nd, following Nessism's method of:
Exhaust valves:
Aim #1 exhaust lobe forward at the gasket surface and then measure both #1 & #2 exhaust valves. Then repeat with #4 facing forward and measure #4 & #3 exhaust.

Intake valves:
Aim #1 intake lobe straight up, 90* to the gasket surface and then measure both #1 & #2. Then repeat with #4 intake pointing up and measure # 4 & #3 intake.

In both cases, I am measuring all of them just at bottom of the spec (.08mm) or below.  My thinnest gauge is .04mm and it won't fit in a few of them, but I can spin the bucket, so there is some clearance it seems

This bike only has 7800 miles on it and has sat for at least the last 10 years.

Is it possible that they are all really out of spec with such low miles?  Does that mean bike was run hard in its early days?  Does it need some run time on it after sitting so long before checking clearances?  (I know that's kinda a silly question, but I'm just scratching my head here).

Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong?  

Appreciate any comments or suggestions.

 

You're not missing anything. I picked up my 650 with about 8,000 miles on it. This was 15 years ago. When I checked the valves then most of them were out of adjustment, a few completely out of range. I figured it was due to the valves pushing in the seats on the new engine. The engine now has 82,000 miles and I had to adjust the valves three times since I got the bike Those times none of them were out of the acceptable range, but a few got shimmed to larger clearance because they were at the bottom of the range. The last two times I checked the valves they have not moved out of adjustment. I don't have my manual here, but at some point years ago they just stopped getting out of adjustment. 

Thanks OKC.  Well, after double, triple and quadruple checking, I came to the conclusion I was reading them correctly and ended up making the adjustments.  All put back together and carbs sync'd.

It runs great!  The only issue I'm having right now is that when pulling away from a dead stop, it tends to chug a bit. Once I'm above about 2500 RPM's, its smooth as butter and freakin fast!
This could just be me not being used to the mechanical clutch or the bike as a whole.  My other ride is a big, heavy Yamaha Venture with a hydraulic clutch.

I might also still be a bit on the rich side on the pilot screws and I still need to check float levels.  So, making progress and happy so far!

If you get all of the maintenance items done and in spec and you still have the issue, at a stop, try blipping the throttle, just as the rpm start to drop feather out the clutch. When you first feel the bike start to roll give it more throttle. It’s my normal procedure pulling off from a dead stop

Thanks Mikaw.  I spent a little more time today getting the carbs dialed in, both sync and the pilot screws.  I said in my previous post I thought I was running rich, but it was exactly opposite, I was on the lean side, which I figured out pretty easily by making the problem go away with a little bit of choke.  I'm probably not 100% dialed in yet, but pretty darn close.  And yes, still getting used to the non-hydraulic clutch.  What you suggested was what I started doing from a dead stop and I was able to make a fairly smooth pull away from a dead stop after about a 5-minute stop/go ride.

So, after checking fuel level in the float bowl and confirming all were in spec, was still having issues with the engine bogging down pulling from a stop.  After pulling and cleaning the carbs and pilot circuit again, I'll cut to the chase.....

After logging 12k miles touring on my 900lb Venture this year, with its 1300cc V4, which has a 6k RPM limit (not sure I've ever been much over 4k) & a hydraulic clutch, I seems maybe I do not know how to properly operate a manual clutch on an inline 4 that redlines at 10k rpm!  A little less clutch and and a little more gas. 

I'm getting better with practice but also wondering if I can get some guidance from the guru's on here regarding the clutch.  It seems to have a vary narrow range of engagement, but that's based on pure muscle memory from my other bike.  

Quick background:  Bike has 7700 miles and sat unused for at least 10 years.   In your collective experience and wisdom, are there potential issues with the clutch from it sitting so long?  plates sticking together or slipping or ???

If so, will those issue work themselves out in time (stupid question), or am I about to get intimate with my clutch and learn something new?

Thanks!