TOPIC:

Regarding KZ1000 J3 1983.

I´ve done 8 attempts wirth different gasket makers to get my alternator cover tight from oil leaks,
but to no avail. Now ordered the yamabond 4, but is there a torque sequence for the bolts?
I see no such instruction in the manual.

And it´s not the grommet, leak comes from bottom longer bolt.

Have you checked to be sure that both gasket surfaces are perfectly flat and free of nicks, cuts and gouges?

I don't torque 6mm bolts. Too easy to pull the threads out. 

They´re pretty decent, and they are what I´ve got,
Noone seems to know about a fastening sequence here so I guess there is none,
I´ll put my hope to the Yamabond...

OEM gaskets give you the best chance

wrote:

They´re pretty decent, and they are what I´ve got,
Noone seems to know about a fastening sequence here so I guess there is none,
I´ll put my hope to the Yamabond...

The surfaces can be corrected if they are not flat. The cover is quite easy to do. All you need is a really flat surface, like a piece of glass, some wet/dry aluminum oxide paper in several grits between 100 and 200, a bunch of wd40 to keep the paper wet so the grit does not get clogged up, and some elbow action. If the engine case surface needs dressing, it is a little more difficult, but doable.
I am pretty sure there is no official sequence, but a cross cross pattern seems a good idea.
Does the bolt on bottom go into a blind hole? If not, the recommended thread lock is likely needed as a sealant, too.
 

When I was doing brake jobs & front end alignments in my late teens & early 20's, I was taught to always tighten the wheel lug nut farthest from the last one I tightened.  In the era of drum brakes, that supposedly helped keep drums from warping.  It was said the be the 'clock pattern'.  On 5-bolt wheels, that means to always move to the next lug nut farthest from the last one, instead of just going around the wheel stud sequentially in a circular pattern.

If a specific torque sequence isn't specified, I still proceed by the 'clock pattern'.

Even if a workpiece isn't round like a clock, such as a dyno cover the sequence is the same.  It doesn't matter where you start.  In this example we'll begin at 12 o'clock for simplicity.

One thing I tend to do regardless, is not fully tighten completely on the first sequence.  I usually do three passes;  first sequence 1/3rd. tight, then another pass to  2/3rds. tight, then a final tightening pass.  I do this process where a sequence is specified also.

On to our dyno cover example;
I'll snug the screw at whatever I choose as my 12 o'clock start, then the screw at 6 o'clock.  Then move to the screw at 3 o'clock, followed by the fastener at 9 o'clock, then 5 o'clock, 11 o'clock etc., always going to the fastener farthest from the last one.  After that first pass, repeat again with higher torque, then a final pass to fully tight. 

When working with 6mm cross head screws such as those originally in a dyno cover, I'll use a #3 JIS screwdriver & get them tight as comfortably possible by hand.  If I'm torquing hex head screws I set the torque wrench to 20, then 45, then 70 in. lbs. respectively for each pass.  Torque specs for general fasteners are in the back of the manual

You mentioned it's not the grommet.  It almost always is.  Seems to be a standard Z1 leak, or at least a weep.  Often when the grommet seals well on all four edges, oil will seep past the wires where they pass through the grommet.  Once that begins, it's difficult to stop, as degreaser can't penetrate well enough to flush oil out to allow a good seal between the wires and the grommet.  About the best I can do is to degrase the wires on each side of the grommet thoroughly as possible, then make it ugly.  Huh?  A crusty old Kaw mechanic told me once to "make it ugly" when applying sealer to that grommet/wire area, meaning use a copious amount & don't worry about what it looks like.  It works.  Mostly.

Someone here (maybe swest?  Please correct me if wrong) mentioned long ago that he'd had success using Krazy Glue-type potion (ethyl cyanoacrylate) to seal where the wires pass through the grommet.  We haven't tried that.

Good Ridin'
slmjim

are you certain the cover is flat? i was chasing an oil leak on a suzuki recently nothing seemed to make a difference until i finally realized the cover was warped ever so slightly. i lapped it lightly on a surface plate and it solved the problem

I'm having the exact same problem with oil leaking from the same place.  I bought an aftermarket gasket on line as there was nothing left of the original, and one surface of the gasket is shiny smooth and the other is more course like a normal gasket.  I am cleaning the engine-side off now; the parts-side is clean. 

Do you use only sealer around the grommet and none on the gasket, or use sealant on the gasket, both sides of the gasket...? 

I've had this thing on and off about five times trying to seal it.

MartyZ1000, have you had any luck yet?  I finally found out why mine is leaking from the same area that you described.  I found a crack in the cover near the forward of the two long bolts.  There are scrapes on it, evidence that it had fell over or struck something.  I will attempt to seal the crack and if your solution doesn't work, I suggest you very close at your cover with your reading glasses or magnifying glass.